The Indian Ocean

Sula sailed from Opua, New Zealand on Saturday 10^th May 2014.

There was a brisk and favourable wind to take us clear of NZ. However it didn’t last very long, and after a few days the wind went light. We headed north looking for the trade winds, using only as much fuel motoring as we dared. Late one night we found ourselves in a strong counter current. I jibed to get back on course, but found we were 180 degrees off course. It took a while to work out that although Sula was pointing in the right direction, she was actually moving backwards at two knots.

Our brand new AIS, bought before leaving New Zealand, was much appreciated. It has proved its worth many times over, especially at night, by relieved us from the stress of estimating just how close an approaching ship might pass. A glance at the AIS would prove that a vessel looking as though it was getting far too close, was in fact a few miles away. On one occasion a tanker was heading directly for us, it was Pippa’s watch and she called the ship’s watch officer on the radio. She diplomatically asked if he would like us to take avoiding action. “No” he replied. “I am altering course now”. I just wonder, had he really seen us? NB. The AIS gives us a vessel’s name, size, course and speed, and most importantly it’s closest point of approach. Also, because we have a transmitter, ships know all about us, too. How did we ever manage before the digital revolution?

Hoisting the Oz courtesy flag

We arrived in Burnett Heads on Australia’s West coast, 170 miles north of Brisbane on Sunday 25^th May. In fact, we had arrived the previous evening, but hove to overnight waiting for the dawn. We didn’t want to arrive on a Sunday and incur double the already steep customs charges. So, as it was getting dark and comfortably after the customs officers had gone off duty, we dropped anchor for the night at the quarantine anchorage in the Burnet River.

 Wildlife at Burnet Heads Marina

On the Monday morning we moved to the marina and cleared customs. The customs and immigration people were thorough and professional, certainly not brusque or officious as we had been led to believe. However, they had picked up that it had taken us rather a long time to get from  the territorial limit to Burnett Heads Marina. “I presume you anchored somewhere overnight?” asked one officer, in an offhand conversational manner. “Oh no,” I assured her. “That is not allowed”. I didn’t consider it necessary to go into further details.

Once we had settled in at the marina, we caught a train to Brisbane in the all too early morning, and visited Annie (Pippa’s cousin) and Olaf in their house in Jacob’s Well, (outside Brisbane).

Ibis seen in Bundy

Pippa hadn’t seen Annie for more than 40 years. They had both changed a little! Annie emigrated to Australia with her husband Olaf and their two sons, many years ago. We enjoyed our brief visit immensely. They welcomed us warmly, plied us with food and drink and encouraged us to relax in their lovely spacious house, and that we certainly did. The house borders on an estuary and their back garden is a delight, bustling with a multitude of brightly coloured exotic birds. Crocodiles are seen, but not by us. (It’s a wonder that there is anyone still alive in Australia. It seems that most of the wildlife is out to get you! Did you know that of the world’s ten most venomous snakes, ten are to be found in this sunburnt country.)  All too soon it was time for us to catch the train back to Brisbane. From there we travelled on the ‘Tilt Train’ to Bundy; much faster and more comfortable than the train on the outward journey.

We sailed from Burnett Heads Marina (at 0400!!!) on the 4^th of June, for the fifty mile passage to Lady Musgrave Island. The early start was to ensure we arrived in daylight. The passage through the entrance pass was not to be contemplated in the dark. As it was, we arrived with only an hour to spare. Our forethought had paid dividends. The Island’s reef is not accurately charted and eyeball navigation was necessary. These small coral atolls have a great attraction for many, providing shelter from the ocean swell if not from the wind. The diving and fishing are reputed to be excellent. Personally, I prefer a sheltered bay, with views of craggy cliffs or sandy beaches.

Early the following morning we set off for Great Keppel Island. A quiet enough overnight passage, though the first night at sea always plays havoc with one’s sleep patterns. Pippa did the Middle Watch (Midnight to four AM) and I did the First (8 PM to Midnight) and the Morning (4 AM to 8 AM). We were on a broad reach all night with a good wind. It was a bit roly poly, but otherwise nice and quiet.

We arrived at Great Keppel Island early in the forenoon of the following day, and enjoyed a restful afternoon and tried to readjust our sleep patterns.

The next day’s fifty mile sail saw us on an exhilarating, if tiring broad reach. We were flying along all day, often doing seven knots. We had intended to anchor in a bay ten miles earlier on, but decided to make the most of this useful 20 knot wind.

We awoke on Sunday, the 8^th of June, to strong winds and driving rain. However the wind was in the right direction and we had brand new Gill waterproofs to put through their paces. It was only a two hour run to  Island Head Creek and was as exhilarating as yesterday’s sail. We met with wind against tide conditions at the entrance, that concentrated the helmsman’s mind wonderfully as we surfed down steep seas. However it didn’t last long before we were safely at anchor in the river. By now we were at the southern entrance of Australia’s Great Barrier reef, and heading for the famed Whit Sunday Islands.

Monday 9^th June.

Our 0630 start was postponed because of too much wind and rain. So here we are safely at anchor. It’s fine when the wind and tide are together but six hours later when the tide turns it gets very bouncy and not much fun. The coastguard radio says it is blowing at 30 knots (force seven or near gale).

Tuesday 10^th June.

Again, much too bouncy. The wind is still blowing at 30 knots. Our sleep was disturbed by the conditions last night, when the wind was against the flood tide. The anchor is well set in, and as usual we have more than enough chain paid out. So we are quite safe. Nevertheless, we moved to a much better place further upstream, at slack water this morning. We are still catching the wind, that is unavoidable, but have escaped the pounding of the swell.

Thursday 12^th June. 

  

A significant improvement in the weather today, so we motored down- stream with the ebb and anchored a mile or so from the entrance of Island Head Creek joining the other ten yachts that sought refuge here. Hopefully, we can sail in the morning, just as soon as there is enough water over the bar.

Northumberland Isles

Friday 13^th June.

We had a good spinnaker run for most of the way to the Northumberland Isles today, though a spring tide headed us for the last few miles. So we got the tin sail on and motor sailed to our anchorage. We had decided not to use the  ‘ Danger Island Pass’ It was Friday the 13^th after all. Then there was a bit of confusion as we approached land, trying to identify the said Danger Island. It was all a matter of perspective. It turned out to be, not the spiky rock, set about with boat breaking reefs, complete with a  mermaid combing her blonde locks, we were expecting, but a tall tree capped islet giving the appearance that butter wouldn’t melt. Once all that stress was over we found a delightful anchorage not marked on our chart, in the lee of Hunter Island to the west of Marble Island.

Saturday 14^th June.

We had a light southerly breeze this morning, so motored northwards towards Digby Island. A mid afternoon squall arrived and before we knew it, we were having to reef as we sped along at six to seven knots on a broad reach. It was quite exhilarating, though became a bit of a problem, as we rapidly approached our chosen anchorage. Pippa took the helm, and headed as far as she could into wind, while I rushed on deck and wrestled down the main sail. We anchored in the most protected part of the bay our draught would allow, but still we rolled rather uncomfortably. Never mind, any port in a storm.

Sunday 15^th June 2014.

Things had calmed down considerably by morning. We left without delay after breakfast on route to Mackay, Australia’s largest exporter of sugar!

As soon as we had cleared a few reefs and small islands, we were able to jibe and sail directly for our destination. Even better, the wind piped up and we sailed at 6 knots all the way to Mackay.

Our AIS proved its worth once again as we passed Hay Point Harbour. There are two massive coal tanker anchorages we had to negotiate on our course to Mackay. At one point I counted no less than twenty tankers in our vicinity. I called harbour control up on the VHF, and received permission to cross the anchorage, but was warned to keep 1½ miles clear of any vessel underway.

The wonderful AIS clearly showed all the tankers and made it easy to spot and steer a course to avoid the only two that were underway. I also heard on the VHF the harbour control warning one of tankers to watch out for Sula.

We arrived at Mackay Marina just before the reception office closed for the day. Good timing; we were able to get a key to the showers and toilets and were asked to return to the office in the morning to complete the necessary paperwork. That suited us just fine.

Monday 16^th

At Mackay Marina. We found a radio technician to have a look at our ham radio. It was receiving OK but not transmitting. He couldn’t fix it himself, but has sent it off to Icom the manufacturers. He will keep us informed of progress and once it is repaired post it on to us a port of our choosing.

Tuesday 17^th

Reprovisioning for Pippa, Bilge pump and engine maintenance for Dee.

Wednesday 19^th

We sailed/motored after breakfast for the Whitsunday Isles. A breeze soon picked up so we unfurled the genoa and had a pleasant enough sail to Goldsmith Island. We enjoyed a lovely anchorage in a sheltered bay that shelved from ten metres to three in just a few boat lengths.  

Whitsunday Islands

Friday 20^th June

Cracking downwind sail all day. Anchored in Cid Harbour in Whitsunday Island. In company with 19 other assorted boats! No worries, we found a good spot to drop the hook off a lovely beach behind the rest of the fleet. When we sit in our cockpit drinking a well earned cold beer at sunset, we see just a lovely view of the island sans other boats.

Saturday 21^st

Sailed just a few miles north to the Fiord like Nara Inlet in Hook Island. We found a lovely sheltered bay out of the wind and swell. Then just chilled out for the rest of the day.

Sunday 22^nd

Sailed after breakfast to an anchorage at Gloucester Island. Much better than it looks on the chart. We couldn’t resist anchoring for lunch and to await the tide to carry us through the Gloucester passage. Our chosen bay was Nelly Bay. Also close at hand were Saddleback Island, Manta Ray Island, Black Currant Island and Dingo Beach. No doubt, we are in Australia.

Monday 23rd

A good sail with a following wind took us to a pleasant anchorage on the North East side of Cape Upstart.

Tuesday 24th

Another good sail took us to an adequate anchorage in Bowling Green Bay. Rather a strange anchorage, very shallow so we had to anchor a mile off the nearest land.

Pippa pulls down a reef.

Wednesday 25^th June 2014.

Strong winds greeted us in the morning. We put a reef in and had a cracking sail to Cape Cleveland. We rounded the headland and anchored off a beach to await the tide at Townsville.

We entered Townsville by way of a very narrow dredged Chanel, with at times only 0.3m of water under the keel. On arrival, we had a text message informing us that our Ham radio has shuffled of its mortal coil. Apparently, it doesn’t much care for salt water in its circuitry. We need an HF radio, so have bitten the bullet and have bought a dedicated marine one this time, rather than the Ham radio my heart would have chosen.

While we waited for the new radio to be delivered, I set too and fitted a new bilge pump. Then there was shopping for a new gas cooker; the old one being on its last legs.(we ended up with 2 burners, no oven)  A full day was spent mostly fitting said cooker. It’s really quite tacky, but the best we could find. I had to use the fiddle from the old cooker, otherwise use at sea would have been nigh on impossible.

Wednesday 2^nd July

Our long awaited replacement HF radio finally arrived today. It was ordered last Thursday. As we half expected, it didn’t arrive on Friday. Then of course it was the weekend and as Flanders and Swan informed us “On Saturday and Sunday they do no work at all”. But on the Monday morning the gas man didn’t call, because it was a bank holiday. Tuesday was spent in a state of suspense and the radio finally arrived - but at five o’clock in the afternoon. I was a very busy man all next day, but by tea time it was more or less fitted. Tomorrow the radio technician will come to inspect my workmanship and hopefully give it a clean bill of health.

Townsville, a lovely town

It hadn’t been all work and no play though. Townsville is a lovely town and we were able to explore some of its delights by bike. I think the photos speak louder than words. Except to say the children’s water garden was a wonder, I wasn’t surprised, though I was much amused, to see the children wait for a cascade of water from a huge bucket, that emptied its contents on their heads. Then of course they would run away screaming, only to return for another dousing. 

Townsville Water Park

One of our after jobs rewards was to cycle to the Rock Pool for a swim. This is the only place in Australia where we felt safe to swim, even though it is still subject to box jellyfish in the summer months.

Townsville Rock Pool

Townsville Waterfall

We left late morning the following day and sailed just a few miles to Magnetic Island just opposite Townsville.

Saturday 5^th July.

Little or no wind for most of the day so we motored rather a lot. A lovely breeze piped up in the late afternoon and we enjoyed a pleasant sail to Pioneer Bay on Orpheus island, where we picked up a visitor’s mooring. Beautiful, calm bay.

Monday July 7^th

We had a spinnaker run all morning. Five knots and lovely sailing. A short stop at Hutchinson Island was delightful, but we didn’t stay. There was not enough shelter and serious reefs beckoned. Instead we carried on under foresail only to Mourilyan Harbour, where we found a good anchorage, with lots of local boats on moorings, but still enough room to swing at anchor. Perfect shelter.

The 11^th to the 14^th  of July saw  passage to Cape York.  

A good SE trade wind hurried us up the Queensland Coast. This was not our normal deep sea passage making. The wind was an almost constant 15 to 20 knots dead astern. We sailed on just the genoa, after a violent uncontrolled jibe on the first day. Precise navigation dodging reefs and big ships was a nonstop job for the person on watch. It would have been madness to attempt sailing like this at night without GPS, AIS, and chart plotter (our laptop). A waxing gibbous moon was also not to be sneered at.

15^th July.

Strong winds encouraged us to seek shelter in Escape River. And escape we did.  At 1 am, just as we were arriving, we had a violent squall to keep us on our toes. On the plus side, we had an almost full moon. Once close to the crocodile infested estuary, the swell died down and the wind was less troublesome. (Unfortunately, we didn’t see any crocs, though friends of ours did.)

Next day, the 16^th, we sailed up the Albany Passage to Cape York, the northern most point of the Australian mainland. We chickened out of a shortcut into Possession Bay we had been told about. There were two large underwater rocks to miss in a very narrow channel, We couldn’t see them and the tide was shooting us towards the gap at a frightening speed. I did a smart about turn, gunned the engine against the tide and sailed the long way round York Island and on to Possession Bay. He who fights and runs away?

On the 17^th we started a seven day passage across the Gulf of Carpentiera to Fannie Bay. For the first 48 hours we had fairly strong winds and sailed at a good speed, but rolled rather uncomfortably. To our delight a turn joined us for one night, perched on our solar panels. 

For the last 36 hours of the passage however, the wind failed and we had to use the Autohelm and motor overnight. Unfortunately the Autohem soon gave up the ghost and we had to revert to hand steering all night. Taking one hour watches. It was hard work, frustrating and very tiring.

There are always jobs on passage.

Here I am repairing the power socket for our Auto Helm.

And here the kicking strap needs some TLC.

We arrived at Fannie Bay, Darwin, in the afternoon of the 25^th July. The Bay is huge and it needs to be, with Yachts everywhere including over 50 embarking on the Indonesian rally tomorrow. Despite being really tired, we caught up with Karen and Mike, friends we have made via a radio net they help run. They understood and were most supportive as we nodded off in between beers. It was worth it because they were leaving for Indonesia the following day and who knows when we will meet again.

Fanny Bay. Darwin.

July 25 – 30^th 

In Fanny Bay, the mud and sand bottom shelves very gradually, so we had to anchor a long way out from the beach to avoid being aground at low tide. To make matters worse we had fairly strong off shore winds in the afternoons. This made rowing ashore rather problematic. (We don’t have an outboard motor for the dinghy). However, we soon worked out that we could motor Sula much closer to the beach at high tide in the early morning, go shopping or whatever then move back to deep water as the tide ebbed.

On one such shopping expedition at the local supermarket, I asked a fellow shopper if he knew where I might buy a replacement fan belt for our engine. He turned out to be a motor mechanic. He not only took me to an out of town car spares shop in his car, but also took time to help me select the size of belt I needed. He even found a pack of two top quality belts for the price if one. Such kindness.

From the 30^th of August to the 3^rd Sept we sailed across the Timor Sea towards the Kimberly islands. For much of the way we had little or no wind and strong tides to contend with. Our speed often dropped to 1 knot.  We hadn’t enough fuel to motor all the 250 miles, so had to conserve fuel as much as possible. A strong wind eventually kicked in as we entered the Indian Ocean.

The 4^th & 5^th saw us at Parry Harbour, having had strong winds most of the day. It had been down wind sailing, with a well reefed main, and genoa, that was poled out goose wing. 

We then sailed to Krait bay, leaving before dawn to ensure doing the journey in one tide. Really nasty tide rips and over falls, when the wind was against tide, have been reported on this stretch of coast. We certainly didn’t want to experience them first hand. Fortunately, we had strong winds on the quarter or beam all the way and made it in good time. It was quite stressful though, especially when we had a close encounter with an unmarked rock in mid channel, just as we were about to round the island on the final leg of our journey. It just goes to show that even with all our technological gadgetry, our wits and our mark 1 eye ball are still in great demand.

Shelter Bay

On the 6^th we sailed a thankfully, easy 24 miles to Shelter bay on Prudhoe island. Arriving just before lunch time, we saw immediately that this was an anchorage worthy of the Yacht pilot book’s  warm words. “Shelter Bay is exceptionally scenic, a special effort should be made to visit it.” The view in every direction is really delightful, huge red and ochre blocks of giant sandstone, laced with iron ore. 

We are surrounded by this spectacular scene, the sea being hidden by a dog leg in our approach. We had feared that it might be sheltered from the wind and be too hot, but this was not the case. A gentle breeze comes through a small valley and kept us at a pleasant temperature. Indeed, so content are we, that tomorrow has been declared a Sula Bank Holiday. 

After lunch we were visited by a beautiful bird of prey, with perhaps a 1 metre wing span, with a white head and hooked beak. Grey and white under parts and a spectacular golden red back. Can anyone tell me what it might have been?

Dog Leg Creek anchorage.

We are rather short of fuel and are reluctant to repeat our recent experience of calms without sufficient diesel, en route to Dampier. A two day detour to Dog Leg Creek was undertaken. Again, we had little or no wind and arrived at our anchorage after midnight, but with the blessing of a full moon.

Dog Leg Creek

Later that morning we motored into Dog Leg Creek itself. Here, we had a perspective problem. It was just not quite, what we expected! Our chart didn’t help very much, as it wasn’t of the scale we required (Perhaps you have heard that excuse before). We saw a small island with a narrow channel to port.  And two dilapidated landing craft in the shallows to starboard. The entrance was obvious! At the last moment, just before hitting the reef between the island and the mainland I realised my error. I quickly reversed off, turned, and gingerly approached the landing craft in the supposed shallows. Of course there was plenty of water and a helpful man keeping his council, ready to sell us some fuel.

There was nothing more to detain us in Dog Leg Creek, so having refuelled, we set sail immediately for the six day passage to Dampier. Ironically we didn’t need much fuel as there was mostly enough wind to sail.

One afternoon I saw a whale in the distance leap clear of the water. It seemed to hang in the air for an impossibly long time before crashing back into the sea, sending up a huge spray of water. A magnificent sighting, even though it was rather a long way off.

Later that day, while Pippa was on watch, she heard a whale blowing, making her jump as it seemed to be right in her ear. Just a few boat lengths away she saw a fin and then a fluke, rise gently from the water. It rose until vertical before majestically sinking back into the water. Apparently these waters are used by mating and calving Humpbacks, and these displays are by the male showing off to a prospective mate.

Strong winds and sunshine

Now we have enough fuel, naturally we also have an abundance of wind. During the next four days the wind and sea built up to gale force. We could not have sailed against it and fortunately didn’t need to. Our course put us with the weather on the port quarter. Just where I would wish it (or some of it) to be. 

We reefed down to three reefs in the main sail and a pocket handkerchief of the jib. The seas built up considerably, but Sula looked after us magnificently. The sun shone throughout, but inevitably spray filled the air. To be honest, life was rather uncomfortable at times, during the last four days of the six day passage.

Life was rather uncomfortable

As I came on watch at 4 AM on the final morning of the passage, the wind had abated considerably and the seas were gradually diminishing. The lights of Dampier could be faintly seen ahead, which was encouraging, though it seemed to take forever for the sun to rise.

Hampton harbour, Dampier.

A real working harbour, but not pretty.

We arrived at Hampton Harbour in Dampier mid-morning of the 15^th of August having sailed most of the way in. We had the sails down and were motoring, during the final leg to the anchorage, but mother nature had one more trick up her sleeve. Without warning we found ourselves in a strong cross current. We had to motor at full speed to keep on course for several minutes before, as suddenly as it started, the tide rip ceased. Just minutes later we were safely at anchor, in the small craft section of this heavily industrial iron ore exporting port.

It was too windy for us to row ashore, but we gladly accepted a ride in a local sailor’s tender. We were made honorary members of the Hampton Yacht Club for our time here and were given the use of their showers and laundry facilities. When Pippa enquired about buses to the neighbouring large town 20 odd miles away, We were offered free use of a staff car.

Seems we have landed on our feet.

   

Just as soon as we have reprovisioned both fuel and food, we will be embarking on passage to Cocos Keeling. This will be the first leg of some long passages and some shorter ones. I will leave it to you to find these Indian Ocean islands on line or in an atlas:-

Cocos Keeling,

Rodriguez,

Reunion,

Durban (South Africa).

With reasonable stops along the way that should take us until December.

Coming in to anchor. 

And still good friends