36th Post. Society Islands to New Zealand

The Society Islands – (Tahiti, Moorea, Huahine, Raiatea, Tahaa & Bora Bora) - proved to be a fabulous cruising ground. Lots of well sheltered anchorages. some interesting walking, many distractions and little in the way of an internet connection. Hence the long delay in publishing a new Blog page.

The Society Islands,

another fantastic anchorage

Bora Bora, though given over almost completely to tourism, proved to be great fun. We were advised that it provided wonderful diving and snorkelling. I had been disappointed with my diving experience in the Galapagos. Having no diving qualification, I was limited to a very tame (though expensive) dive with an instructor; student ratio of one to one.

Pippa and I therefore decided to sign up for a five day Padi diving course.

It was hard work, but great fun. We learnt how to cope with all sorts of emergencies underwater. High on the agenda was running out of air, loosing your goggles and helping your ‘buddy’ during those and other emergencies. The only real accident was when Pippa accidently kicked my 2^nd stage regulator (mouth piece to you) out of my mouth.

The diving locations were all in the sea. (as opposed to using a swimming pool) The water was, of course, quite warm and stunningly clear. Each day we saw beautiful corals, exotic fish, and brightly coloured clams. Our last open water dive was just wonderful. We went outside the reef and as well as the sights I have already mentioned we came across several Manta Rays. These majestic creatures totally ignored us. We stopped while they swam gracefully bye, they came beside us, underneath us, and above us. I also saw a sting ray near the bottom and was glad that he also ignored me. If that wasn’t enough we later came across several white tipped sharks. They paid no attention to us, though I kept a weather eye on them.

One abiding memory of Tahiti – Hinano beer

We had planned to go next to Rarotonga in the Southern Cook Islands, but heard through the yachting grape vine that the harbour was undergoing major reconstruction and was not at all a pleasant place to visit. Instead we took the 1050 mile passage to Nuie.

What a stroke of luck. We would have missed both Nuie and Tonga. It’s one of the things I like so much about ocean cruising, or sailing at all for that matter. You can often change your plans at a moment’s notice.

Nuie is the world’s smallest independent nation and it’s largest coral island. We thoroughly enjoyed our visit. We took a mooring off the town quay rather than anchoring, as the water is very deep and the bottom littered with rocks and other anchor snagging obstructions. 

Last of the great explorers in Raiatea

 At the Nuie yacht club we hired two beaten up old bikes (One of my peddles fell to bits half way round a twelve mile bike ride). We went looking for a series of ‘sea tracks’ These are coastal sights of special interest. Some are suitable for swimming & snorkelling. A rough path might lead through a sea cave to a beautiful lagoon. Others are walks that lead to a spectacular vista. At one sea track we swam in a lagoon that until fairly recently had been the private bathing pool of the King of Nuie.

 A Sea Track

The Green Bridge of Nuie?

At another we burnt our fingers. Despite a sign warning us of a strong rip current in a pass through the reef, we thought we knew better. We snorkelled too close to the rip and found ourselves out of control and heading rapidly for the open sea. The only way out was to climb quickly onto the sharp skin-tearing coral reef. This we did and paid the price. Much shaken, though little hurt, we nursed our wounds and dented egos for the remainder of the day.

Egos dented, but nothing worse

  

By Pacific ocean standards, the 240 mile passage from Nuie to Tonga was quite short. However, a two and a half day passage such as this one is quite tiring. By the time one has adjusted to the watch keeping routine of four hours on watch and four hours off, you have arrived at your destination and need to readjust to normal sleep patterns.

Tonga consists of two major islands: Vava’u to the north & Tongatapu to the south. There is also a central group of small islands, Ha’apai. We made our landfall at Vava’u and cruised through the Ha’apai archipelago to Tongatapu. 

Sula’s crew enjoying Pacific clarity & colour

  

Flanders and Swan have a lot to answer for, Olimakityluchachichichi does not mean No!

But I couldn’t get the silly song out of my head. Not that I tried dating any Tongan Maidens Fair. Nevertheless, we enjoyed our cruise through the islands. The two main towns were pleasant and we could buy all the provisions we required.

One enterprising individual impressed me no end. He sold me a hand made Red Ensign for Sula. The one I was shown was well made, but too big. The solution, he said, was for him to return home and get his daughter to run up a smaller one. However, he required a deposit. Very strange, I thought. We had seen him on his boat going from yacht to yacht, so he knew us.

Somewhat reluctantly I paid up. He duly returned a couple of hours later and presented me with the flag and I paid the balance. Never mind that the quality was inferior to the specimen he had shown us. It dawned on me some time later that he had probably bought the flag and paid for it with my deposit. Quite an entrepreneur.

Yet another fantastic anchorage. This one is off Nuie.

One can change the sailing plan but not the weather. Our time in the tropics was rapidly coming to an end. We would soon be entering the cyclone season. The thought of storm force winds and the giant seas that accompany them, reminded me of advice given to us before our first ocean passage, from Bill, a ship’s captain and Milford Haven Pilot, “Any boat less than 100ft is a toy”. He told us. “The Atlantic ocean is not a playground”.

We mustn’t stay too long in the tropics, but if we go too early it will still be winter in New Zealand. Timing is everything. The crossing from Tonga to New Zealand is a tricky one; infamous for unreliable weather and boisterous sea conditions. We planned for ten to twelve days for the 1200 mile passage. The idea was to depart just after a gale had passed between the Tasman Sea and New Zealand, then hope to be across before the next one.

A bit like crossing the road really.

We were leaving the land where corrals lie

Ironically, we suffered from calms more than gales. We had a good wind to blow us clear of Tonga. Then almost nothing for the next three days. We couldn’t motor any significant distance, so just had to put up with it. Of course, when the wind did come, it was stronger than we would have wished, but it seemed churlish to complain.

The main sail was fully reefed and just a postage stamp of jib rolled out. It was blowing a force seven (a yachtsman’s gale) and we regularly exceeded the maximum speed Sula had been known to sail. Seven and a half knots was recorded. In the wee small hours (when else) a violent gust tore our roller furling jib in half. The main sail, not wishing to miss the fun, snapped four of its sliders. (sliders hold the sail onto the mast). We were not quite half way into our passage. Both damaged sails were lowered and lashed down as best we could and we continued under storm jib and trysail. Our speed, thankfully, was reduced to a more comfortable five knots. 

Cape Wiwiki

The blow lasted a couple more days before we were able to hoist the now repaired main sail and a small jib that hanks on to the inner fore stay. It isn’t as good as a Genoa but much better than a storm jib in lighter winds.

Two days of light airs followed before a fair breeze piped up. Early on the second day I heard the familiar sound of a citation blowing. Dolphins, I thought. But no. Two whales, possibly Minkies, had come to inspect Sula.

They circled us at no more than a boat’s length off. The top of their heads would come to the surface and they would blow. Then they would gracefully arch their backs and perform a shallow dive, before surfacing again and repeating the spectacle. Wonderful!

Hoisting the NZ courtesy flag

The new found breeze helped us to our landfall of Cape Wiwiki. Passing the cape we entered the Bay of Islands and had arrived in New Zealand! We so far forgot ourselves that we congratulated Sula, and gave each other a huge hug.

P.S.

If you want  to see what Sula is up to between published Blogs, go to the Post Script & Where next pages on the right hand side of the Blog. I do my best to keep them reasonably up to date. 

35th Post -The Pacific

The 3,000 mile Pacific crossing from the Galapagos Islands to French Polynesia went well, if slowly; it took us 28 days.


We had no bad weather apart from a few squalls. During one of them, while sailing at full speed, the main sail slam jibed, (mischievously got out of control) (Mea-culpa) causing the main sheet block to fail. It was an exciting few minutes in the wee small hours before I was able to lower the main sail and continue with just the jib. No great harm was done and I was able to repair the block during daylight hours the next day.

On another occasion the main halyard chafed through. So up the mast I went and swapped it for the topping lift. It was rather bouncy, so I didn’t stay up there too long. The next day the weather was fine and the sea calm, so I was able to climb the mast again, and find out why it had chafed through. Interestingly, going aloft was much easier with the steadying influence of the main sail and spinnaker.

The view from aloft

The view from below

 

 

I think that two quite minor problems aren't bad in 3,000 miles of continuous sailing.

Our daily routine became rather monotonous. Keeping four hour watches day and night, eating, sleeping, reading our Kindles and listening to music on our Walkmans. We couldn’t complain though, mid ocean adventures were something we could well do without. We kept a log book of our progress and half way across the Pacific Ocean, it was interesting to note that in terms of distance, we were in one of the remotest places on Earth.

“Hello Pippa, what have you got planned for today?”
I thought I might go sailing.”
“Good idea, I think I will too.”

Jolly useful things, Spinnaker poles.

We saw no other yachts and only one ship during our crossing. Early one morning a container vessel came close while overtaking us, and inquired over the VHF Radio if all was well. On being assured that all was indeed well, he wished us the traditional "Good watch" before disappearing over the horizon. Ships that pass in the night! How nice of him to take an interest in our welfare.

I have come to accept that I am no fisherman.

We caught not a single fish during the whole passage, though two got away.

Our land fall in the Marquesas was Atuona, in Hiva Oa. We were most impressed by the lush vegetation and fine mountain scenery, unfortunately, hill walking was not an option, we had no map. We did get some exercise by walking along a scenic road for over a mile to the village of Atuona. This was enough considering the state of atrophy of our walking muscles.

The highlights were visiting the Gauguin museum and Gauguin’s house, for it is here he died and is buried. A little less cultural was the Miss Hiva Oa Final. We went along in a spirit of participation and found the traditional dress section and the traditional dance that accompanied this were superb.

Sula at Fatu Hiva

Exploring Fatu Hiva

Guess Who

We spent a fortnight or so exploring these beautiful islands. They really are lovely, as are the people. While looking around the village of Viatahu on Tahuata island, we asked a man if it was permissible for us to walk along a small path by his house, that we thought would lead back to the beach. We were assured that it was, but were not allowed to leave before being presented with a bag of fruit from his garden. We were given mangos, funny little apples and two enormous grapefruit. What kindness and generosity!

Traditional Polynesian canoe

   (But how did the ancients get hold of Carbon Fibre?)

On another occasion three young men arrived at our quiet anchorage in traditional Polynesian outrigger canoes. (Real wooden ones) We had been ashore on Oa pou exploring and met them as they landed on the coral shore. They presented Pippa with a large papaya (Their only one) and carried our inflatable to the water’s edge for us. They made nothing of the gesture. It’s just the way these warm hearted people behave.



Our Papaya. A gift from Oa Pou

Tiki found on Nuka Hiva

Many of the Tikis were destroyed by misguided missionaries.

Nuku Hiva is the capital of the Marquesas. Here again we joined in the celebrations leading up to Bastille Day. One evening we were treated to a most spectacular Fire Dance. Men and women in traditional costume were engaged in a varied series of dances while carrying flaming torches. They were accompanied by a band of drummers, with a range of drums, the biggest reaching up to their shoulders, and they were big men. The whole spectacle seemed to get right inside us. The raw power of the drums and chants of the dancers made our chests seem to resonate to the music.

Tiki found on Nuka Hiva

The following day we got up early and paddled ashore for some early morning shopping.

After completing our mission we were treated to a splendid display of men, women and young boys riding bare back ponies, first a formal procession past the Mayor and other dignitaries (but very few tourists) then gallops along the beach. Horses and riders were in traditional dress, many of the men bare chested, displaying wonderful tattoos. It was the best shopping trip I have ever had!

As I write we are in Rangiroa, the capital of the Tuamotu Archipelago. The islands are a scattering of small atolls whose highest point is often the coconut palms on the beach. Once again we had a quiet passage, though this time it was only 500 miles.

High ground in the Tuamotus

Until the advent of GPS, these islands were feared by sailors and known as the Dangerous Islands. They are so low lying they can’t be seen until one is almost on top of them. In addition, strong currents flow between the atolls. Entrance to the lagoon is through a narrow pass in the coral reef. Then, as if all this wasn’t enough, their final defence is often strong currents (up to nine knots) in the passes themselves. You will have guessed by now that these currents are difficult to predict. Waves, built up by the trade winds, crash into the coral reef on the windward side of the islands and spill over into the lagoon. The result is that the outgoing streams often run for ten hours out of twelve hours of tide.

The trick is to only visit an island if you have an up to date chart. Watch your GPS like a hawk, approach cautiously with the engine running and if you don’t like the view ahead, remember that discretion is the better part of valor and beat a hasty retreat.

A Reef at low tide

Of course, local knowledge can be a bonus, but not always. On Kauehi we had an exciting entrance:-

As we approached everything looked fine until we were committed to running the pass. Then quite big waves suddenly appeared ahead. Our only recourse was to put the engine to full ahead in order to remain in control as we surfed down the waves. Thankfully it didn’t last long and we were soon spat out into the calm of the lagoon. Not wishing to repeat the experience we asked ashore about the best time to leave the following morning. No one seemed to know! (Even an old man who looked as though he had once been a fisherman) We never did find an answer to our question. Our favorite quote was from a very pleasant young man from another island, visiting his sister. “I haven’t a clue, I come and go by aeroplane”!

So; though a trifle apprehensive, we left at first light the following morning. Luck was with us, we caught the pass in benign mood and it allowed us through with the merest ripple in evidence to remind us of its power.

It hasn’t all been an adrenalin trip in the Tuamotus. We visited four islands in the archipelago. Kauehi, Fakarava, Toau and Rangiroa. We have found lovely quiet sheltered anchorages with good snorkeling. The natives are friendly if understandably retiring and the sun shines most of the time.

We stayed in Rangiroa for a few more days, to publish this Blog update and prepare for the 200 mile passage to Tahiti. Well; The best laid schemes of mice and men. Our internet connection let us down. So we sailed without publishing the latest installment of the Blog.

A coconut crab at the entrance to its burrow.

It’s a shame but despite their name they rarely eat coconuts.

We are now in Tahiti. The passage went without any problems, though it was a trifle more boisterous than we might have wished. We were on a broad reach or occasionally a reach all the way across, with force 4 or 5 winds and a trade wind swell. Quite breezy! We sailed at six knots or more, most of the way and to be honest it was a mite uncomfortable. Spray flew everywhere. Ho hum. If one will go sailing! To add insult to injury we arrived off Tahiti in the late evening. I lacked the courage to brave the pass through the reef, in strong winds and darkness. So we spent the night hove too. (As near to stopped as one can be at sea). In the early morning of Sunday, we anchored in a delightful and sheltered lagoon in Tahiti. To both our surprise and delight we had the anchorage to ourselves. We slept well that night.

We have looked at alternative anchorages and there are several available, but so far none can better the one we are in. So here we shall stay. One of it’s many delights is that each evening and often early in the morning the local canoe club turn up in force to practice. The craft are always carbon fiber versions of the traditional Polynesian canoe. They are mostly single seat craft but sometimes two or three seat versions. We have even seen two twelve seat monsters. The link between all of them is that they are propelled with the latest design of cranked paddles and that they go like stink.

Polynesian canoes in Tahiti.

We are now looking forward to exploring the Society Islands for the rest of August. They are reported to be “intriguing to visit, with beautiful lagoons, good walking and friendly people” I will let you know.

34th Post - Panama to Galapagos

I’m afraid this post is a bit of a rushed affair. The reason is quire simply that we have been too busy enjoying ourselves in the Galapagos Islands. And now it is time to leave. I feel rather like a schoolboy doing his homework on the bus. Please forgive me.

In the Panama Canal

Eric, our Panama agent came up with the goods and steered us through the complex web of bureaucracy surrounding a transit of the Panama Canal. We were very glad of the experience of previously being line handlers on another yacht. It helped our confidence no end. We were unable to find volunteers to do the job for us so had to pay three local lads as line handlers. I was very impressed with their rope handling skill, and their general affability.

Our professional rope handlers

We went through the canal as a group of three, one large catamaran, one large yacht and ourselves. Day one was quite short. A series of locks lifted us up to the Gatun lakes, a huge artificial lake with many very pleasant islands, where we spent the night tied to a mooring bouy. On the second day, for reasons unknown to us there were no ships going through the canal in our direction, so we had the place to ourselves. This time a series of locks lowered us down into salt water again. Only this time it was the Pacific Ocean!

The town of Panama didn’t detain us for long. We anchored off La Playita for a few days for sight seeing, shopping and the internet and as soon as we could, headed for Galapagos, with a short stop at the Archipelago de Las Perlas. Las Perlas was charming and peaceful, an excellent place to prepare for the 1000 mile passage to Galapagos and for confronting the Inter Tropical Convergence Zone (ITCZ) Otherwise known as the Doldrums.

We had taken extra fuel on board in jerry cans tied to the guard rails, in anticipation of being forced into doing a lot of motoring. The ITCZ lived up to its reputation. We had no wind or the wind against us. It was hot with 100% humidity. Sleep was difficult due to the heat, exacerbated by having to run the engine for days on end. On occasion, black or dark blue clouds would form a wall ahead of us, the wind would pick up and speed us into the darkness only to stop as the rain deluged down and lightning flashed and thunder resounded in our ears. Then only three days later (although it felt much longer) a breeze set in and to our delight we found we could sail. The wind, fitful at first, eventually settled into a pleasant, if light sailing breeze.

Our GPS reading as we crossed the Equator.

It was an easy enough if frustrating passage, boredom was an issue and we had to discipline ourselves not to be so engrossed with our Kindles or Walkman that we might fail to keep a good lock out. A real possibility when you haven’t seen another ship for three days or more.

The highlight was undoubtedly crossing the Line. King Neptune was otherwise engaged so we toasted his good health with a glass of rum. Pippa dripped some of hers into the sea, while I handed a glass to his highness. He didn’t take it and I didn’t repeat my offer.

Our neighbours at Wreck Bay anchorage, San Cristobal.

We arrived at the Galapagos island of San Cristobal on the morning of Friday 18th of May and stayed rather longer than we had intended.

I want to recommend to the compilers of the Oxford English Dictionary, a new adjectival phrase. “It is (or was) so Galapagos” Our Island was every bit as wonderful as we were given reason to expect. Going ashore by water taxi, I was greeted on the quay by a gaggle of young sea lions under the not so watchful eye of their mother.

A lasting impression will be the peaceful co-existence of wild life and humans. All have boundaries, though I have never found wild creatures so tolerant of man.

Sea Lions know a lot about sleeping.

Sorry, I couldn’t resist it.

Quite unperturbed.

At the fish market.

 

While snorkelling as part of an organised party, we discovered a shallow bay where Sea Lion juveniles searched us out and played with us. I can only describe it as fantastic. It was more than just wonderful. They twisted and turned, came swooping up missing us by inches. One even took a most gentle nibble at the end of my flipper. Quite Galapagos.

                                       Ice cream seller and son.

 Some of the humans got up to interesting tricks too. The man drove and took the money while the boy dispensed ice cream and cold drinks.

Now what could this be?

Pippa went to Santa Cruz for a day and visited the Darwin research station, while Dee went diving for the day. Both enjoyed their experience, but no more than walking in the hills or along the coast or swimming from the local beach.

On a coast path walk reminiscent of Pembrokeshire we found the following:-

Marine Iguana

A heron perhaps?

Blue footed Booby.

Frigate Bird

As you will have gathered, Galapagos lived up to its reputation. It’s not cheap, but we felt we couldn’t just sail past without stopping. It may be some time before we come this way again.

So tomorrow (Wednesday 30th May) we sail for The Marquises in French Polynesia. Our first port of call will be Hiva Oa. It’s a three thousand mile passage, of mostly Trade Wind sailing. That is, with a good, following, reliable wind. One can’t take anything for granted at sea and we must keep on our toes. Let’s just say we are hoping for a warm and gale free passage. If we can maintain 100 miles per day we should be there this time next month.

Wish us Bon Voyage.

The Caribbean part two

Monday 27th Feb - Guadeloupe.


In preparation for cruising amongst the Pacific islands, we thought it prudent to haul Sula out of the water in Guadeloupe for a detailed survey and a report of her seaworthiness. At the same time we decided to have her topsides painted while we would apply a couple of coats of antifouling.


Would you believe it? Having paid an arm and a leg for a professional paint job for our very tired looking hull, a strip of the new topcoat came off with the protective masking tape we had applied for painting the boot topping.


Our 0930 launch was cancelled. The painter was recalled, and to be fair to him he came almost immediately from another job. He was most apologetic, but couldn’t explain why it had happened. Our options were to have the hull repainted, or to have a decorative strip applied to the damaged area. We couldn’t face another week in the yard, so opted for the latter.

We eventually launched later that afternoon and went to a berth in the marina close to the super yachts. What a contrast to being in a scruffy yard next to a rat infested, overflowing skip.

The view from our cockpit.

Then we found the fridge wasn’t working! So the Gas man was called and diagnosed a leaking condenser plate. Fortunately I had a spare. It had leaked two years previously and had been repaired with Araldite. Expecting it to fail again, I bought a replacement, though being a thrifty sort of person didn’t fit it while the repaired one was working. I think two years of extra life is good value for a tube of glue.

Later that day, Bernard our surveyor, & Pascaline, his wife, took us to see the film ‘The Iron Lady’, and to have supper with them afterwards at their house. How very kind of them. It was a lovely evening. You would have been proud of me, I resisted the urge to boo and hiss when Meryl Streep appeared as Mxxxxxxx Txxxxxxx on screen.


The very next day, fellow Elizabethan 31 owners, Francoise and Joel came round to invite us to dinner. We were picked up in their motor launch and were transported to their delightful house on Ilet Boissard, just a few minutes by fast motor lunch away.

Never have we been such socialites. The following day we went to a local Creole restaurant with Bernard (our friendly surveyor) for lunch. Pippa was aghast at us drinking Ti Punch (Rum, lime and sugar) at lunch time. Well, when in Rome...


Eventually we escaped the marina but the socialising didn’t end there. We Left the following morning and sailed in company with Joel and Francoise, to the island of Ilet de Gosier for a very French picnic lunch. Table cloth, Ricard, wine, terrific cold buffet and great company.


We will not forget the generosity of the splendid people who helped and entertained us in Guadeloupe.

Sula on the right with Chiquito Limon on the left,

Elizabethan 31s both.

 Friday 2nd Feb


We Left Pointe a Pitre at 0415 to motor all the way up the river Salee, await the 0500 opening of the road bridge, and continue into the Grande Cul-de-sac Marin, on the north side of the island. Once there we found an excellent place to anchor and returned to our bed until a more respectable hour.


We were in no great rush to depart Guadeloupe, so decided to Visit Ilet a Caret in the afternoon. It proved to be very pleasant, though demanded great care while navigating through the extensive reefs. It wasn’t really suitable for an overnight stay though, so we returned to our anchorage of the morning and remained there overnight.

 

River Salee to Passe a Colas

Saturday 3rd Feb


We had another early start, though this time the more reasonable 0630.


The route out of Cull-de-Sac Marin leads through a maze of reefs. However, it was well marked with buoys so provided one kept alert it was not too difficult. All went well until a tricky S bend between the final two reefs. Then we lost the channel! We could see a red and a green buoy, but we were looking for a green one on quite a different bearing!

This was not the place to put blind faith in the GPS. We approached with the upmost caution watching the echo sounder like a hawk. We were expecting it to be shallow but ½ a metre under the keel was ridiculous. The bottom was clearly visible and looked none too inviting. We dragged the mainsail down and retraced our route. It was Pippa who worked out what was wrong. “I bet our buoy is behind that anchored catamaran!” And so it was. I gave the skipper a piece of my mind for obstructing a vital navigational aid, when later on we passed within a few feet of his stern.


Once clear of Guadeloupe, we had a fast if lumpy passage to English Harbour in Antigua. We were on a beam reach in the trade winds and didn’t drop below six knots for the next 36 miles. Most of the time it was 6 1/2 and occasionally 7 knots. The wind and the swell continued right up to the time we entered English Harbour on the south coast of Antigua Freemans Bay was very crowded and the yachts were jiggling around a fair bit, but we eventually managed to squeeze into a vacant gap. Despite its historic importance English Harbour was just too crowded with yachts and tourists for our taste. We left shortly after completing immigration and customs clearance.




Monday 5th March


We had a cracking sail today. Just the Jib for much of the time, as we ran down wind. As we left the Goats Head passage between terra firma and the reefs our run turned into a reach. The sailing improved and we easily kept up our six to six and a half knots. Eventually, as we approached Deep Bay, we were hard on the wind, but we had a reefed main up by then and still managed five knots. We tacked into our anchorage and anchored in two metres in sand. There was no shelter from the wind, but the sea was calm so we were content. It had been a fine day’s trade wind sailing in the sunny Caribbean.




We felt so small!

Tues 6th. March


In the morning we motored round the corner and into St Johns to get some provisions (beer), and pick up Email. The approach between two huge cruise liners looked rather improbable, I called up the harbour master on the radio and got permission to proceed to Redcliffe Quay, though I still found it difficult to believe we had got it right. We entered very slowly, expecting to be shouted at or blasted with a ship’s horn at any moment.


"But hey, this is the Caribbean man, they do things differently here". We didn’t risk outstaying our welcome though and after completing our jobs ashore, we moved to Long Island on the north east coast.


We anchored off a splendid luxury hotel & holiday resort. Reputedly fit for royalty. But we weren’t invited ashore.

Luxury resort at Long Island

Thursday 8th March


Great Bird Island was much more our cup of tea. We sailed just a couple of miles further round the coast to find this quite fabulous anchorage. What’s more we had it entirely to ourselves. After the almost compulsory swimming and snorkelling, followed by a bite of lunch, we rowed ashore to explore. Access was easy and the island far exceeded our wildest expectations.

Sula is anchored just out of sight in the gap between

Bird Island and the first islet in the background

One of many Long Tailed White Turns nesting on the island.

Or is it? Please someone let me know.

But it wasn’t only birds.

We almost literally bumped into this Iguana.

Sat 10th March


Saturday found us in the quite extraordinary Jolly Harbour marina.
The harbour and marina complex are built in a dredged out mangrove swamp.
Its all very up market with a slightly tired look about it in places. There are rows and rows of private houses each with its own jetty complete with yacht or motor boat. The biggest surprise for us was that we could afford to stay there. At the marina we tied up to piles with our bow to a pontoon with the help of a very laid back boatman.


That evening a cacophony of excruciatingly loud live pop singing drove us to explore our surrounds. On the other side of the marina some distance away from the offending open air bar we found two other establishments, though unfortunately, they were both even worse than the one we had tried to escape.


We left the following morning, in search of something more akin to our liking.




Wednesday 14th March


We had a good fast sail across to Basseterre on St Kits.


I managed to blag a free short stay at the small marina while I checked in with customs and immigration. A process we had to repeat on nearly every island we visited.


After inspecting a couple of recommended bays in which to anchor, we sailed back to the unfortunately named Shitten Bay and bagged the best spot to anchor. It was really lovely; sheltered, attractive and with good snorkelling. It was here that I saw a huge sting ray, it must have been a metre in diameter. I left it alone.


Thursday 15th March


Got up at 5am and sailed to Saba. Unfortunately the moorings outside the harbour were quite untenable in the strong wind and heavy swell. The harbour itself was only of any use to small fishing boats, so we continued round the island and picked up a visitors mooring in the much more sheltered Ladder Bay. Still very windy though. No chance of going ashore to check in or explore the island.

Ladder Bay Saba. With the Old Customs House in the trees.

Not so many years ago (1943) Ladder bay was the only ‘harbour’ on the island. Everything and everybody landed on the small beech, and walked or was carried up the 800 step stairway. No wonder the island was never invaded by pirates.




Friday 16th March


We moved a little further up the coast and anchored in the better protected Wells Bay.


Before lunch, we had some excellent snorkeling off Torrens Point. Quite the best snorkelling we have done in the Caribbean so far. A pair of barracudas made me jump as they swam into my arc of vision. I don’t think they were hungry, so I was OK.


 We left Saba at 4pm, just two hours before dark (They don’t have much dusk in this part of the world), and made passage towards the BVI’s





Saturday 17th March


We had a most relaxing passage of 85 miles to Virgin Gorda in the BVI’s.
Four to five knots or better on main and a partly reefed Jib with a quartering wind on the starboard tack. (Come on the land lubbers amongst you, keep up).


Arriving soon after dawn, we went directly to the pleasant though hot Virgin Gorda yacht harbour near Spanish Town. We cleared customs, bought some essential victuals and left before incurring a full days harbour dues. Then we anchored free of charge behind the reefs in Savannah Cove. We had this lovely bay all to ourselves, probably because of the reefs.






Sunday 18th March


We moved the short distance to Long Bay. Anchored and had a lovely relaxing time. The snorkelling just got better and better, Long Bay on Virgin Gorda was quite spectacular, It provided everything I could wish for: crystal clear water, a huge variety of spectacular coral, hundreds of fish of a staggering variety of colour and size. In some places the bottom dropped vertically for twenty or so feet. It was more like flying than swimming.





Tuesday 20th March


Moving further around the coast we found Drakes Anchorage off Mosquito Island in the lee of the huge Colquhoun reef. Despite it’s name, it was a fine anchorage with no mozzies.


We were just about to crack a tin of cold beer and were congratulating ourselves on our seamanship skills for having entered Gorda (North) Sound under sail. When a tall ship in all her glory sailed in, had a look round and sailed out again. We were duly humbled.

"Pippa, why do you suppose they call it Mosquito Island?"

We were duly humbled

Wednesday21st March


As we were leaving North Sound, on our way to Prickly Pear Island in Eustatia Sound, we came across this monstrosity. The BVI’s certainly cater for all tastes.

From the sublime to the ridiculous.

The BVI’s have it all.

 23rd March


Yet another great sail today. We were bound for South Sound on the little visited windward side of the island. We motored out through the reefs, then had a short beat to windward to clear the head of Virgin Gorda. Once round that it was plain sailing down the outside of the island. On arrival at South Sound we treated the pass through the extensive reef with great care and found we had the whole place to ourselves. A fine day’s sailing.




Our route to South Sound

Our thanks must go to Sarah and Geoff for the benefit of their experience in this part of the world. (Sarah & Geoff, you will notice that we chose to go through the Eustatia Sound Pass. rather than Oil Nut Pass as you recommended. This was because the wind direction on the day gave us a better sailing angle to clear Pajaros Point).

Glorious solitude in South Sound Virgin Gorda,

with the reef clearly visible to seaward.

24th March


We sailed to the south of Virgin Gorda in the morning, through Round Rock pass and on to the Baths. Having picked up a free National Park buoy at Devil’s Bay, we set off to explore. Yet more wonderful snorkelling was had around and in-between the giant boulders, before arrive at the neighbouring Bath Bay. Rather than retrace our steps, we followed a short trail to what is called ‘ The caves’ which leads along the beach and in-between the boulders above the tide line and so back to Devils Bay. A grand day out. One can’t stay on the moorings overnight so in the afternoon we sailed for Long Bay for a second time.

The Baths on Virgin Gorda

Sunday 25th March


After lunch we sailed the 12 miles down Sir Frances Drake Channel to Brandywine Bay on Tortola. It’s conveniently situated close to Road Harbour. And anyway we liked the name.






Monday 27th March


We moved into Road Town’s Village Cay marina in the morning for three days, to prepare for our 1000 mile passage to Panama.


I think I may have mentioned before that we like to have a ‘Hudson Bay’ day before a passage. That means we sail just a modest distance on the first day, to a sheltered overnight anchorage, to check we haven’t forgotten anything too urgent, before setting of on the crossing.

The expression comes from the fur trappers working for the Hudson Bay company. They would have a short day before canoeing off for the wilds of NW Canada.

Our last day in the Caribbean's Leeward Islands was off Treasure Point on Norman Island. It is a lovely bay in a very attractive setting. We picked up a mooring, and subsequently paid up, a king’s ransom for the convenience. It would seem that the owners of the island have found a way of generating the fortune that eluded Long John Silver.

We were very lucky and had an easy crossing of the Caribbean Sea. There were good winds and not too much swell most of the way. We would have made a remarkably good time as we were regularly clocking over 120 miles per day and on one occasion 148 miles. However for the last couple of days the wind fell light. Even with our spinnaker up 24 hours a day we were often making only three knots.

Having arrived in Panama in the early hours of the morning, we anchored of Colon for a couple of days to adjust our sleep patterns and relax a bit, before moving to Shelter Bay Marina (Fort Sherman).


 

The Panama canal
Notice the trains controling theship's lines.

We have a mountain of bureaucracy to climb before we can go through the Panama canal, but we are already approaching camp one. I had the misfortune of having my wallet stolen while clearing customs and applying for a cruising permit. It was very well done and I didn’t notice until I came to pay my taxi driver. (Its much too dangerous to walk in downtown Colon).


Having paid $100 for the cruising permit, a very ammusing and helpful man engaged me in conversation, while his accomplice removed the wallet from my rucksack that was laying on the counter. I had turned my back on it for no more than a few seconds. The only clue that implicates them is that they suddenly turned and walked quickly out of the office.


So, soon it will be goodbye to the Atlantic. Sula will transit the Panama canal and enter the Pacific.

Helping out as line handlers in the Panama canal

While waiting for a date for Sula to transit the Panama Canal we volunteered to help a neighbouring yacht as line handlers. The canal company stipulates that there must be four line handlers per yacht in the canal. It’s good for the other yacht’s crew in that they don’t have to pay us. It’s also very good experience for us. Better to bend their boat than ours.

All being well, the next Blog update will be from an idyllic South Pacific island. I don’t know, but I would expect Blog updates and Emails will be rather erratic once we are in the Pacific. However, I will do my best to keep you informed. In the mean time remember to check out the P.S. and Where next? pages in between Blog updates.

Our outline plan is to visit the following Pacific island groups:-

Galapagos (900 miles).

Maquesas (3000 miles).

Tuamotus (500 miles).

Society Islands (180 miles).

Southern Cook Islands (350 miles).

New Zealand (2000 miles). We might just rest up there for a bit.

Our route is known as the Coconut Milk Run, and sounds just fantastic.

I will let you know.