Ria Vivero - Spain

We are now safely across the Bay of Biscay. The three week wait in the Golfe de Morbihan paid off. We were able to choose our time, and wait for the right weather forecast. An ebbing tide hastened us on our way and spat us out to sea at a good Ten knots, but of course we were getting used to these ferocious tides by now. We had very light winds at first and had to resort to the tin sail. But at about midnight a steady North Westerly piped up, the engine was turned off and we were sailing at a steady five knots. There was a two metre Atlantic swell but no big waves, so although it was a little bouncy we were able to steer our course at a quite respectable speed.

During the afternoon of the second day, we crossed the continental shelf where the depth plummets from 150 metres to 4,500 metres into the Biscay Abyssal Plain. One has to wonder at such a time, what mysterious sea creatures lurk in these depths, and what do they have for dinner! It obviously wasn’t Dee today as the photo shows. I just couldn’t resist dipping a toe into such deep water! We did indeed see some sea creatures but they were most benign. The first visitors were a pair of Pilot Whales. We saw them some distance off. They zoomed in to inspect us, stayed a few minutes swimming side by side in perfect unison. A lovely sight. Our next visitors only an hour or so later were a pair of Minkie Whales. We were alerted to their presence by the sound of them blowing. It quite made us jump! They provided us with a marvellous display as they swam alongside Sula, blowing each time they came to the surface. Just as suddenly as they arrived, they departed. They quite made our day. It’s the first close encounter Pippa or I have had with a whale.

The wind that had been so helpful thus far petered out on our third night at sea. The engine had to be called into service again. In the early hours a light wind did pick up, but it was from the South West, right on the nose, so we continued to motor sail. That is until at about 2AM we ran out of fuel. Bugger! We had some spare fuel in cans but had thought there was plenty in the main tank. Perhaps we need a fuel gauge! We sailed slowly on the best course we could make until dawn. Then hove to, refilled the tank, bled the fuel system and re started the engine. Eventually the wind veered to the West and we were able to sail into, not Corunna as planned, but into the delightful Ria of Vivero, just east of Pta de la Estaca de Bares, the most Northerly point of Spain. We even had a small pod of Harbour Porpoises to lead us into our anchorage.

I will end on a sad note. On Saturday evening when we were about 80 miles from land we picked up this little hitch hiker. He landed on board, persisted in his endeavours to go below deck, despite our encouragement and offers of food and water for him in a quiet corner of the cockpit. We didn’t see him again and presumed that he had jumped ship on approaching land. However his corpse was discovered this morning in the sail locker.
What I want to know is. What is a little land bird doing 80 miles from shore? (One wonders if the whales thought the same of us.) I would also like to know what sort of bird it was. A glass of cheap red wine goes to the first Emailed answer to my question.

Still waiting

Saint-Goustan

We are still in the Golfe du Morbihan. The High Pressure we were hoping was on its way didn’t come to much. South Westerly winds are dominating the Bay of Biscay. That’s no use to us whatsoever.

One hundred miles, or one day out from here, the continental shelf ends: the depth of water plunges from 200 metres to 2000 metres deep in only 10 to 20 miles. The disturbance to any swell from the Atlantic Ocean, coupled with a summer gale in this region kicks up notoriously rough sailing conditions. We have to bide our time, and that’s just what we are doing.

Yesterday we tried to anchor at Lamor Baden but the anchor just wouldn’t bite. An earlier reconnaissance had indicated that a caffeled up mooring was not in regular use, so we decided to make use of it. We rowed ashore, assembled our fold up bikes and cycled the seven miles into Auray and the medieval port of Saint -Goustan. All very picturesque and well worth the effort but we were glad that we had cycled rather than motor sailed all the way up river, a lunch stop was quite sufficient. At Pippa’s behest we took the scenic route back. We visited a few harbours, cycled along many a path quaintly marked ‘Velo Interdit’ and passed some lovely countryside and equally lovely houses. Much later we arrived back at our point of departure, and I happened to notice a small blue yacht circling ours. We had outstayed our welcome! They didn’t make a fuss, but wanted their mooring back without delay. We obliged.

This morning we motored in a fresh breeze the two miles to the marina at Port du Crouesty, at the entrance to the Golfe. Our intention of re provisioning, re fuelling and picking up a favourable forecast didn’t happen. The marina was packed and we were forced to become the fifth yacht in a raft on a pontoon. We couldn’t get a line ashore and caused the raft to bend horribly in the increasing headwind. I knew we couldn’t stay but we had nowhere to go.

A berth did become vacant, but the approach was too tight for an old lady such as Sula. She just wouldn’t turn into the wind in the space allowed. The consequences of messing it up would cause damage to other yachts as well as our own. I declined the offer. My stress levels were high, but I just wasn’t prepared to return to sea in the now force seven winds.

Eventually I did find a suitable berth. The Capitaine du Port assured me “Eh bien ,if you can find a place, you can ‘av it!” It was relatively sheltered, but most attractively of all it was surrounded by several Ribs; If you don’t know, Ribs are rubber boats with an engine on the back. Just the things to bump into if bump you must! As it happened we completed the manoeuvre without any bumping, and as I write this missive, we are snugly tied up to a finger pontoon, we are washed, fed, watered and ready for bed. Good night.

Golfe du Morbihan

The entrance to the Golfe du Morbihan

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We have had quite a busy schedule up to now as you will see from the list below. But now we have slowed down a little. We have spent the past week in the Golfe du Morbihan, and have enjoyed it immensely. Our time here has not been without it’s excitement. It’s been spring tides this past week and in places the tide gets up to 9.1 knots!!

Most of the best anchorages in the Golfe have been filled with moorings, and at this time of year they are mostly occupied, so anchoring can be problematical. We were therefore very pleased to find a spot to anchor a little up stream of Ile de Conleau. A strenuous row ashore was followed by a delightful cycle along the bank of the river which led into the heart of Vannes. We explored the wonderful old walled part of the city and enjoyed the architecture and open markets.

Our third night at this anchorage was less than ideal. At 2 a.m. Pippa called me with the news that we were aground! Nothing was to be done, we were stuck hard in the mud with over an hour to go before low tide. We spent a most uncomfortable time until dawn, heeled at over 45% before the tide returned to release us from the mud’s embrace. The strong South West wind of the last few days had moderated and backed to the North West, blowing us out of the deep water channel. The good news was that it all happened in the dark of night so we were spared the embarrassment of witnesses.

Strong tides

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On Monday 5th we went out of the Golfe to Port du Crouesty on a shopping trip, and to fill our water tanks at the marina. We had a moderate head wind but the tide was strongly in our favour. We beat our way through the maze of islands in glorious sunshine in company of several yachts, a hand full of power boats, and the occasional Vedette (small ferry). You know how things creep up on you? We found ourselves tacking back and forth to avoid rocks and other craft, rather like the start line of a local yacht race. Things were indeed getting a little exciting. The water was heaping up in a tide race, and it was getting increasingly difficult to remain in control. A glance at the GPS showed that we were doing eleven knots!! Nine of which were due to the current. It occurred to me that perhaps it wasn’t the most seaman like thing to be doing. A prang here would mean the loss of the boat. Pippa started the engine, the Jib was rolled away and we regained full control, although without loosing any speed. The remainder of the passage was less eventful.

Boats, Rocks & 9 knot tides

The last Weather forecast I got from the interned showed that high pressure was building in the Atlantic. I will check again this afternoon, when we go ashore and cycle to Arzon. We have discovered a free community internet connection there. A sign on the door says “ when we are closed you may access the internet using Wi Fi from the car park.” If the high pressure is indeed continuing to build we will be setting off to cross Biscay by the weekend. We are planning to make landfall at Corunna. An expected passage time of about three days.

Traditional Breton dancing

This is where we have been so far.

July 2008

4th Neyland marina. Pembrokeshire
5th At anchor, Mill bay. River Cleddau
6th At anchor, Dale.
7th On passage to Newlyn. Cornwall
8th At anchor, Newlyn.
9th Rafted, Penzance harbour.
10th Alongside wall, St Michael’s Mount.
11th At anchor, Helford river.
12th At anchor, Ruan Creek, River Fal.
13th At anchor, Voose, Helford river.
14th On passage to Roscoff.
15th Alongside wall, Roscoff.
16th At anchor, Aber Benoit.
17th At anchor, de Roscanvel,Rade de Brest.
18th Marina, Moulin Blanc, Brest.
19th At anchor, River Aulne, Landevennec.
20th Alongside wall, Port Launay, River Aulne.
21st At anchor, Anse de Penhir near Camaret.
22nd At anchor, Audierne, South Brittany.
23rd At anchor, Benodet River Odet
24th At anchor Near Quimper, River Odet
25th At anchor, Benodet, River Odet.
26th At anchor for lunch, Ile de Penfret, Glenan Isles.
26th At anchor, Port Manec’h
27th At anchor, Sauzon, Belle Ile.
28th At anchor, Port St Jean, Bell Ile.
29th Marina, Port Crouesty,
30th At anchor, Anse de Penhap Ile Aux Moinesn, Golfed u Morbihan
31st At anchor, Anse de Penhap, Ile Aux Moinesn,

August

1st At anchor, River Marle. Near Vanne Golfe du Morbihan.
2nd At anchor, River Marle
3rd At anchor, River Marle
4th At anchor Ile Longue
5th At anchor Ile Longue
6th Visitors mooring Anse de Kerners.

Marinas & harbour berths 5 nights
At anchor 27 nights
Alongside wall (no charge) 2 nights
On passage 2 nights