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Thursday 4 July 2013

38th Post Fiji

Though we are in Fiji now, I think I should bring the blog up to date by completing the tale of our time in New Zealand.

The 37th Post covered our travels from our arrival in New Zealand to our departure from Great Barrier Island. This Post starts as we leave Great Barrier Island and enter the Hauraki Gulf.

We motor sailed through the Man of War Passage, and began a fabulous twenty four mile beam reach, to Kawau island in the North Channel of the Hauraki Gulf. We sailed at 6 knots most of the way sometimes reaching 6.5 knots. The scrub off at Smoke House Bay had really produced dividends.

As we approached land the wind backed and we ended up on a rather uncomfortable run through lumpy seas before anchoring in Shark Bay, Bon accord Harbour. 

Cormorants off Great Barrier Island
Bring back fond memories of canoeing in Pembrokeshire.



By way of contrast, our next port of call was Warkworth’s Town Wharf.
Getting there involved intricate pilotage up the tidal Mahurangi river.

We set off three hours before high tide and proceeded slowly and with great care over the low water mud flats. We often had less than a metre under our keel. Having safely tied up alongside the town quay half an hour or so before high tide, we still couldn’t relax because Sula needed constant attention and adjusting of lines until sufficient water had gone for her to sink her keel into the mud and lie gently against the quay. 

At low tide, the only water in the river was from a fresh water stream that was mere inches deep.

Warkworth is a pleasant town and we enjoyed our stay. Apparently few boats come this far up river. Perhaps our home cruising ground of the Afon Cleddau with its extensive low tide mud flats made us appreciate the Mahurangi River.

During the following week we visited the following :-
Otarawao Bay, Motuketekati Island, Oneroa Bay, and Opopoto Bay.
Where, to my shame, I had to repair a small tear in the mainsail, caused by not pulling the tack down tight enough while reefing.

On the 7th March we sailed to Garden Cove on Waiheki Island.
The tiny entrance to this anchorage lay between land to starboard and a large rock to port. It had just about enough room for us to anchor. However, we felt we were invading the space of a group of people on the beach, so, stopping only long enough for a cup of coffee, we sailed back a short way to a pleasant anchorage at Woodlands Bay. Here we found a secluded rock pool to skinny dip. Lovely.

The next day we sailed along the coast to the northern tip of Waiheki Island. I had spotted a likely looking cove with rocks on either side, not mentioned in our pilot book, but marked on the chart as Ruruwhangro Bay. It proved to be an excellent anchorage with some superb rock scenery.

We were keen to move round to the west coast of the island because of a strong wind warning, so after lunch we handed the anchor and sailed round to Hooks Bay on the Eastern side.  A pleasant bay with sand cliffs aplenty. Interestingly, hundreds of native hard wood trees have been planted on this sheep and cattle grazing land.

One of Pippa’s other loves


It blew a fresh breeze overnight and we were glad to be in a secure and sheltered anchorage.

We set off after breakfast with a reefed main and jib but shook them out after a couple of hours. Then had a cracking sail round the north of Waiheke Island and down the Waiheke Channel to anchor in a fine bay next to Chamberlin’s Bay on Ponui Island.

On the way down the channel we met a racing fleet coming up. 
Unfortunately we were on the port tack and they were on starboard. (ie. they had right of way) There was plenty of room however, so it was not a problem, though I had to concentrate hard as we crossed the bow of the leading yacht, decked out in his finest Kevlar sails. 

Further down channel we were treated to the sight of a racing Trimaran. The crew rode on the windward hull that was a metre or more out of the water. The leeward hull was scarcely visible above the water. We kept well clear.


That evening we witnessed a common phenomenon that puzzles me.  As we sat in our cockpit enjoying a cold beer, yacht after yacht in a neighbouring bay up anchored and moved into a crowded, but bigger bay. (Fortunately not ours) The forecast was for settled weather, the holding in both bays was reported as being good. Why did they move? Do they feel safer crowded together like sheep? Perhaps they see one yacht move and think “He’s moved, perhaps this bay isn't secure! I had better follow him.” The Lemming principal I suppose.

Waitamata Harbour. Auckland


Our fabulous cruise of the Hauraki Gulf ended with our arrival at Auckland’s Waitamata Harbour. What a brilliant entrance to a wonderful city.
It easily lives up to its other name, The City of Sails. As a bonus the
Queen Mary 2nd was in harbour.

We booked ourselves into the giant Westhaven Marina. It’s really a huge parking lot for boats, with 2,000 odd berths! Still it was just what we now needed. We could leave Sula safe and sound while we explored some more of  South Island.
  
On the 14th March we flew to Christchurch, it was only a 1½ hour flight, and well worth the money. It would have cost us nearly as much to take two days over the journey and go by coach and ferry.

We drove to Hanmer Springs to take up Steve and Lynne Brodie’s kind offer to make use of their Bach while they were away completing the Te Araroa Walk.

You can read all about that at:- Te Araroa Walk.




Hanmer Springs



Monday 18th March

My sister Celia came to visit us in Hanmer. She sandwiched us in between a cycling holiday in Vietnam and a cultural visit to Japan. Boats don’t do much for her, I probably put her off by one too many duckings in the days of my first sailing boat a GP14 I named James Caird.

Celia was with us for ten days or so. On the agenda was lots of catching up and storytelling, over scrumptious grub cooked in the luxury of a kitchen rather than a galley.

Other activities included Mountain biking on a system of tracks around Hanmer, followed by a relaxing visit to the famous hot springs.

One of Hanmer’s cold springs

We did some gentle sea kayaking, and on the way back visited a fresh water mountain stream, where a hundred odd seal cubs played in a natural nursery.  A DOC poster informed us that they were honing their social and swimming skills in preparation for the day their mother would lead them out to sea.

It was a lovely visit and we are indebted to Celia, and to Steve and Lynne Brodie. Thanks all three of you.


Gorge walking on a hot day – Just the ticket


On the 30th of March we flew back to Auckland and re-joined Sula.
Just like a loyal spaniel, she welcomed us back without the slightest hint of recrimination for having abandoned her for so long. If the truth be known, I  tend to fret while away from her. After years of sailing I still fail to be convinced that she will cope in my absence.


Next on our agenda was to make our way to Whangarei Town Basin for two weeks, where we would have Sula hauled out, scrubbed and antifouled.
We have heard Whangarei described as a muddy hole. This is just not true.
It is a fine town with an excellent marina, slap in the middle of town. Everything a yachtsman might need can be found within walking distance.
Unlike many marinas, this one has soul. 


On the 18th of April we sailed via Whangaruru back to Opua in the Bay of Islands. The weather was definitely becoming autumnal by now, and it was time to return to the tropics.

The passage from New Zealand to Fiji is easy enough if you get it right. The trouble only begins if you get it wrong! Autumn is the time to go, but that isn’t the end of the story. As the New Zealand winter approaches a series of gales come storming in from the Tasman sea. But if you go too early there is the risk of meeting a late cyclone in the tropics. The trick is to study the weather forecast carefully, wait until a weather front has passed through, and then set sail with alacrity. Unless of course there is a second front close behind the first.


This little hitchhiker joined us for part of the way
  

So, following the above criteria, we set sail from Opua on the 8th of May.
The first few days were rather uncomfortable because of a confused sea following the latest Tasman sea blow. Then on the sixth day out we caught some brisk winds as expected. It was still a bit bouncy, but at least we were sailing well and making good progress. On the 8th day the sun came out, it was warm and we could dry out our foul weather clothes. On the 9th day we were drifting along at one knot. Ho Hum!

Our only paper chart of the approaches to Fiji was a photocopy of an old Admiralty chart. A good modern paper chart just couldn't be found.

While idly studying the notices to mariners on the chart’s margin, I was perturbed to note that though it claimed to be WGS compatible, and that positions obtained from GPS could be plotted directly on to the chart,
a second note informed mariners that Thakau, Momo and Nairai islands had been reported as being ½ a mile ESE of their charted position.

Never mind. If we were only doing one knot we wouldn’t hit them very hard!

On the 21st of May 2013 we made landfall at Savusavu in Fiji (without bumping into anything).

The charming Copra Shed Marina provided us with a convenient mooring, just a few boat lengths from their office complex.  The weather was warm and often hot, but became very humid between fairly frequent rain showers.

Customs, immigration and port health officers came aboard and helped us with a large wad of paperwork. Many of the forms referred to the ships master, crew and passengers. One asked the ships surgeon to report any  contagious diseases. Inspite of the fact that the forms were rather over the top, the officials were most helpful, sympathetic and efficient and the whole process was over before too long.

Fijian Blossom



Savusava is a small but bustling multi ethnic town. Many of the shops are owned and operated by Indian immigrants. I say immigrants, but the truth is that most of them are third generation immigrants. For many complex reasons integration just isn’t working in Fiji. What a shame.

Now, it’s not often I get the chance to talk about spelling. (That’s Pippa’s prerogative). But here goes.

Suva is the capital of Fiji.
Savusavu is the town of our arrival in Fiji.
Somosomo is the capital of the nearby Taveuni Island
Sevusevu  is the ceremony of welcome to visitors of a village.
Sulu is the skirt worn by men on formal occasions.
Sula is the name of our yacht. Though perhaps we should refer to her as Sulasula to avoid any confusion.

The weekend got in the way, so we had to wait until the Monday to collect our cruising permit. There was a short delay at the customs office concerning some technical matter which I never did grasp. But it says so much about the Fiji people. It was a hot and very humid day. Rather than being left standing at the custom officers window, we were ushered into an air conditioned office where comfortable seats were found for us while we waited. 

Palm trees are just magic aren’t they?
(The white speck in the background is Sula)


On the 28th May we sailed from Savusavu and in the early afternoon and dropped anchor in Naidi Bay. A south facing anchorage with a small village on one side and a small tourist resort on the other.

A smartly dressed young man quietly and unexpectedly arrived along side.
Astonishingly, he was driving a Jet Bike! Our first thought was that he was going to tell us we had to move on. But no, he was here to invite us to his village, once he had finished his day’s work at the resort.

We met up as arranged later in the afternoon and he took us to his brother’s house where he bought a bunch of Kava roots. Pippa and I immediately realised that we were going to be taken to see the head man of the village, for the welcoming ceremony of Sevusevu.

We were rather embarrassed that we had not thought to bring the traditional gift. I tried to pay for the Kava but our Jet biking friend wouldn’t hear of it.

At the head man’s house we were seated cross legged on a mat while our guide presented the Kava. Much chanting and loud clapping of hands took place while Pippa and I clapped when prompted by our guide. It was rather uncomfortable on the floor and we tried hard not to fidget. More importantly, we had to be most careful not to allow our feet to point towards the head man. That would have been very rude indeed!

Not long after we had returned on board, the wind shifted to the South and steadily increased all night long. Our anchorage faced south and quickly became uncomfortable; by dawn it was clearly untenable. We hoisted a well reefed main sail, started the engine and let it warm up for a few minutes. Then, as soon as the anchor was out of the mud, I put the engine at full speed ahead and crashed through the waves towards the narrow, reef lined entrance. Once clear of the reef we were in deep water and things became more comfortable. However we were still on a lee shore, The jib was set and the faithful engine was stopped and we sailed back the six miles to the security of Suvasuva bay.

I’m happy to report that we have had no more epics. Though it does rain!
As we were approaching a pass through the reef into Dawn Harbour, Pippa looked up and said “It looks like rain”. And so it was. Before we knew, there was a flash of lightning followed immediately by a deafening clap of thunder. Then the heavens opened their flood gates. The rain was hitting the deck and bouncing up again. Visibility was about a boats length. Having long ago decided that discretion is the better part of valour, we hove to and postponed our entrance while the deluge lasted.

We have been anchored in some stunning bays, often having one all to ourselves. Coral reefs are everywhere, causing headaches for the navigator and difficult anchoring. The rewards though are well worth the effort. Marvellous snorkelling and scenery to match.

One evening I was a little concerned that while at anchor overnight, we might swing round with a wind shift and hit a reef. So I set the echo sounder in alarm mode to wake me up if the water level dropped too low.

Later that evening I heard, not an alarm, but a whale. It blew very close alongside Sula. Pippa and I rushed on deck. It was very dark, with the moon providing some light in a cloudy sky.

We heard several more blows. Some close by, but others further off. It was rather frightening at first, but then exciting.

It seems that two small whales had found their way through the pass and into the lagoon. But presumably couldn’t find their way out again.
It occurred to me that they may have become confused because of the ultra sonic pinging of Sula’s echo sounder. I switched it off and soon after they were gone. Perhaps it was just coincidence?


Ropate and Sio


Our social life has also hit a peak. We visited the small and remote fishing village of Karoko, a little off the yachting trade routes.

Ropate, a young fisherman, led us to the village head man, for us to make our Sevusevu.  We presented him with a gift of Kava root, and he welcomed us to his village, and offered us his protection.

That evening we were invited to attend a fund raising dance.  $1 entrance fee plus $1 per litre of Kava. 

We went to the dance after visiting the brother of our guide, where we sat chatting and drinking Kava and eating fish in coconut milk (lolo) and taro (a starchy root vegetable).

Kava is the local substitute for alcohol. It’s a mild narcotic, very relaxing and made my tongue and lips tingle a little. I treated it with caution!

The highlight of our stay was being visited by the villagers, and especially the children. At one point we had sixteen guests on board.
They came in a variety of craft, including two short sections of a broken surf board.

Our Avon three man dinghy being put to good use




Ropate, Luisa, and Sio.


Later we took Ropate, Luisa, Sio and the village head man, for a short sail. All, apart from the baby, thoroughly enjoyed themselves.
“This is the first time I have sailed in a yacht” was heard from the excited head man on more than one occasion.


Sula takes on extra crew.


Fiji is certainly living up to its reputation amongst the yachting fraternity.
Our plan now is to visit some of the Lomaiviti islands to the south of Vanua Levu. I will try not to leave it so long before the next blog update.



Luisa’s presents to Pippa
She had made them all herself. What kindness.







Sula of Llangwm

We had told Luisa that Sula is Latin for Gannet.