I’m afraid this post is a bit of a rushed affair. The reason is quire simply that we have been too busy enjoying ourselves in the Galapagos Islands. And now it is time to leave. I feel rather like a schoolboy doing his homework on the bus. Please forgive me.
In the Panama Canal
Eric, our Panama agent came up with the goods and steered us through the complex web of bureaucracy surrounding a transit of the Panama Canal. We were very glad of the experience of previously being line handlers on another yacht. It helped our confidence no end. We were unable to find volunteers to do the job for us so had to pay three local lads as line handlers. I was very impressed with their rope handling skill, and their general affability.
Our professional rope handlers
We went through the canal as a group of three, one large catamaran, one large yacht and ourselves. Day one was quite short. A series of locks lifted us up to the Gatun lakes, a huge artificial lake with many very pleasant islands, where we spent the night tied to a mooring bouy. On the second day, for reasons unknown to us there were no ships going through the canal in our direction, so we had the place to ourselves. This time a series of locks lowered us down into salt water again. Only this time it was the Pacific Ocean!
The town of Panama didn’t detain us for long. We anchored off La Playita for a few days for sight seeing, shopping and the internet and as soon as we could, headed for Galapagos, with a short stop at the Archipelago de Las Perlas. Las Perlas was charming and peaceful, an excellent place to prepare for the 1000 mile passage to Galapagos and for confronting the Inter Tropical Convergence Zone (ITCZ) Otherwise known as the Doldrums.
We had taken extra fuel on board in jerry cans tied to the guard rails, in anticipation of being forced into doing a lot of motoring. The ITCZ lived up to its reputation. We had no wind or the wind against us. It was hot with 100% humidity. Sleep was difficult due to the heat, exacerbated by having to run the engine for days on end. On occasion, black or dark blue clouds would form a wall ahead of us, the wind would pick up and speed us into the darkness only to stop as the rain deluged down and lightning flashed and thunder resounded in our ears. Then only three days later (although it felt much longer) a breeze set in and to our delight we found we could sail. The wind, fitful at first, eventually settled into a pleasant, if light sailing breeze.
Our GPS reading as we crossed the Equator.
It was an easy enough if frustrating passage, boredom was an issue and we had to discipline ourselves not to be so engrossed with our Kindles or Walkman that we might fail to keep a good lock out. A real possibility when you haven’t seen another ship for three days or more.
The highlight was undoubtedly crossing the Line. King Neptune was otherwise engaged so we toasted his good health with a glass of rum. Pippa dripped some of hers into the sea, while I handed a glass to his highness. He didn’t take it and I didn’t repeat my offer.
Our neighbours at Wreck Bay anchorage, San Cristobal.
We arrived at the Galapagos island of San Cristobal on the morning of Friday 18th of May and stayed rather longer than we had intended.
I want to recommend to the compilers of the Oxford English Dictionary, a new adjectival phrase. “It is (or was) so Galapagos” Our Island was every bit as wonderful as we were given reason to expect. Going ashore by water taxi, I was greeted on the quay by a gaggle of young sea lions under the not so watchful eye of their mother.
A lasting impression will be the peaceful co-existence of wild life and humans. All have boundaries, though I have never found wild creatures so tolerant of man.
Sea Lions know a lot about sleeping.
Sorry, I couldn’t resist it.
Quite unperturbed.
At the fish market.
While snorkelling as part of an organised party, we discovered a shallow bay where Sea Lion juveniles searched us out and played with us. I can only describe it as fantastic. It was more than just wonderful. They twisted and turned, came swooping up missing us by inches. One even took a most gentle nibble at the end of my flipper. Quite Galapagos.
Ice cream seller and son.
Some of the humans got up to interesting tricks too. The man drove and took the money while the boy dispensed ice cream and cold drinks.
Some of the humans got up to interesting tricks too. The man drove and took the money while the boy dispensed ice cream and cold drinks.
Now what could this be?
Pippa went to Santa Cruz for a day and visited the Darwin research station, while Dee went diving for the day. Both enjoyed their experience, but no more than walking in the hills or along the coast or swimming from the local beach.
On a coast path walk reminiscent of Pembrokeshire we found the following:-
Marine Iguana
A heron perhaps?
Blue footed Booby.
Frigate Bird
As you will have gathered, Galapagos lived up to its reputation. It’s not cheap, but we felt we couldn’t just sail past without stopping. It may be some time before we come this way again.
So tomorrow (Wednesday 30th May) we sail for The Marquises in French Polynesia. Our first port of call will be Hiva Oa. It’s a three thousand mile passage, of mostly Trade Wind sailing. That is, with a good, following, reliable wind. One can’t take anything for granted at sea and we must keep on our toes. Let’s just say we are hoping for a warm and gale free passage. If we can maintain 100 miles per day we should be there this time next month.
Wish us Bon Voyage.
