30th Post. The Canaries

September 2011 The Azores and Canaries.


Thursday 8th.


We sailed from Horta after breakfast, for Velas on Sao Jorge. Having fresh tail winds most of the way and sailing with just the Genoa set, we experienced an uneventful crossing.

The marina manager at Velas met us as we approached the reception pontoon. He warned us that a big swell was expected later in the day. We therefore spent quite a while tying up alongside an unmanned British yacht and also lashing ourselves to the pontoon.

Sula anchored off Velos on a previous occasion.

Fri 9th


The big swell, however, didn’t happen. Not that I’m complaining.


As we were preparing to set off in the morning, two officers from the Port Police paid us a visit. The first was a little concerned that we were leaving while a gale was forecast. I explained that if we left now we would be 200 miles south by the time the blow arrived and so miss it completely. He frowned a bit, but the second and senior officer understood and agreed with my logic.


We had given a lot of careful thought before setting off for the Canaries. Two hurricanes from the Caribbean & USA would pass close north of the Azores. We scrutinized the Grib files each day to watch their progress.


Yet another hurricane was due to follow a week later. Winter was approaching and it was time to head south.

One is always anxious when making these decisions, but it is a fallacy to think that the safest place is always to be in harbour. As it happened we had excellent sailing conditions and cleared the storm with a good safety margin.

We heard later that as the gale approached, local fishermen were urgently hauling their boats out of the water. The yachts that couldn’t be hauled out experienced wild conditions, with boats surging back and forth on their moorings and the pontoons lifting a metre in the heavy swell.


The passage to the Canaries went with no more than the sort of hitch that serves to stop one becoming complacent. Here are some extracts from our log.


Friday 9th


There was a fair swell in the Sao Jorge channel, but we ran off at 5 knots
and sailed overnight just off a dead run.


Sat 10th


Daily run at 10.30 AM. 110 miles. Sun shining.
Sailing on broad reach on Stbd tack at 4 to 5 knots.

Plus this item of seamanship from Pippa.
We have discovered a new measurement: The Grunt, as in:-


(Me) “The main sail looks a bit slack; I thought I’d really Grunted it up”.
(Dee) “I think it could do with half a grunt more”.


Sun 11th


Daily run 124 miles. Sun shine & fair winds. All well.
Still on Starboard tack Full and Bye.

Mon 12th


Daily run 121 miles. Sunny and warm. Continuously sailing at 5 to 6 knots. Wind heading us a bit at times but continuing to maintain speed rather than course. We can afford to lose ground to the East knowing we will hit North Easterlies near Madera, and can then run down to the Canaries.


The new Autohelm wouldn’t work when we lost the wind for an hour or so on Friday. The old one also gave up the ghost with mechanical problems.
I set to this morning to make one good one by taking the circuit board from the old one and putting it in the new.

Tue 13th


We took the opportunity to swim in 5,200 metres of water this afternoon.


I dived in from the shrouds and while underwater saw a huge dark shadow! My heart skipped a beat before I realised that it was only Sula’s shadow. We later saw three turtles and several shearwaters during the course of the day.


Wed 14th


Several rain showers today accompanied by blustery winds. Fortunately the skipper managed to contrive to be below while Pippa stood watch as they came through.


Thur 15th


Nearest land is the Ilhas Selvagens, which we visited last year between Madeira and the Canaries. They bring back very fond memories.

We have now picked up the North Easterly winds that are a feature of this part of the world.

I saw a close up of Shearwaters feeding today. They were following flying fish put up by our presence. The birds would swoop and land on the water plunging their heads below the surface. I watched a bird do this on a number of occasions until eventually I saw it lift its head and could clearly see it swallow a fish.


Sat 17th


Land Ahoy.


We sailed for 30 miles down the coast of Tenerife in a strengthening wind.
Our chosen anchorage at Bahia de Abona was untenable, so we sailed another 35 miles overnight to the South West coast of Gran Canaria, looking for a lee from the force seven winds.

It had been a difficult end to an otherwise easy passage. We arrived at dawn off the superb sheltered anchorage, of Barranco del Parchel to the South of Cabo Descojonado. This detour made our total passage 920 miles over ten days.

Cabo Desconjnado

We had booked a berth at the marina of Puerto de Mogan. However, there being no rush to get there, we were quite content to remain at anchor for the time being and to get our sleep patterns back to normal.

When we did get there a bit of a culture shock awaited us at our allocated berth. We are bang slap in a busy tourist development, albeit a rather up market one. We feel a bit like being in a goldfish bowl. On full view to anybody that cares to look. Not that they do very much. Shame about me getting the stern line wrapped around our prop!

On our first evening in harbour we dined on board with fresh giant prawns mixed salad, fresh bread (hot) and steak. With a good bottle of Rioja to wash it down. YUM!

The view from our cockpit

Thurs 22nd

We took the bus for a two hour journey to Gran Canaria’s capital, Las Palmas. Following the coast road, we were treated to extensive views of holiday apartment blocks and miles upon miles of sterile barren landscape. Some agriculture was apparent, mostly poly tunnel like structures or huge brown netting compounds.

Las Palmas was dreadful. We wanted to see how the ARC (The annual Atlantic Race for Cruisers, with upward of 200 yachts taking part) were accommodated and also to take advantage of the numerous yacht chandlers to be found.

We both agreed that it was fortunate that we had not made plans to sail to Las Palmas. On the plus side, I was able to buy the LED Tricolour light I wanted and Pippa was able to seek out the nicer parts of town. Though in her telling, the biggest impression seems to have been made by the prostitutes she encountered in the red light district.

Sat 24th

A quiet day in harbour. Swimming and a few cleaning jobs.

I visited the local Irish Bar, for air conditioning and internet access.

Unable to hire a car as planned today. Because it is change over day!

Mon 26th

We left Pto Mogan after lunch and motored 2½ miles up the south west coast to a pleasant anchorage that we had all to ourselves. A black sand beach going to pebbles in the southerly half. A little rolly especially when a motor boat or fishing boat goes by. But it’s just so good to be out of the marina.

Wed 28th

We set off after breakfast to go to Purto San Nicolas. Having rounded Cape Descojonado and approaching Cape Colorado, we suddenly encountered strong headwinds. We had obviously run foul of the in shore acceleration zone. We reefed immediately, though about five minutes too late. I got very wet at the mast.

It was futile to bash against it so we turned around and headed for a nice looking anchorage we had spotted between the two capes. All went well and we dropped the hook. I tidied up on deck while Pippa prepared lunch.

With no warning the fierce winds of the acceleration zone found us. We were well dug in with plenty of chain so were OK. However we couldn’t properly appreciate our lunch, what with the wind a'howling, and the waves a'crashing. With the utmost care we got the hook up and motor sailed clear of the anchorage and the headland beyond. With our tails between our legs, we returned to our trusty old anchorage. All calm, butter wouldn’t melt.

Fri 30th

Having motored the 8 1/2 miles to Puerto San Nicholas, in light headwinds. We anchored an hour after low water, with 1.5 metres under the keel in sand and rocks. Just before the acceleration zone winds kicked in.

A snorkeling survey showed that the anchor was held under an adequate rock and the chain led around a couple of quite large ones. So I’m happy that we are secure and won’t swing into anything nasty. We were however snatching somewhat when the wind was at its strongest so I sent the Fisherman’s anchor down as a Chum. That solved the problem nicely.

(Chum – a heavy weight one slides down the anchor chain to give the anchor more holding power and reduce snatching)

In the evening while the wind was taking a rest, we paddled the dinghy ashore for a look round this ‘local people’s’ seaside resort. No tourists (except us) also no houses, just a couple of bars a handful of fishing boats and a few motor boats and of course Sula.

It was pleasant to sit in the shade in the waterside bar, with no bouncing around and drink beer with olives.

October 2011

Sat 1st

We left Puerto San Nicholas after breakfast, bound for Punta de la Stancia ¾ mile southwest of the marina at Radazul. There was not a breath of wind so we had to motor the whole thirty six miles. However, we were rewarded by a visit from a school of dolphins who delighted us with there antics in the crystal clear water.

Dolphin antics

Also sighted was a disturbance ahead and a large dark shape just under the water. We thought it was probably a whale. Later on we saw a dorsal fin and just a small part of the body of what we took to be a small whale. Also seen were four turtles basking on the surface. What do they eat? And how deep do they dive? The ones we saw were in 2000 metres of water.

We arrived at a fine anchorage; we are well dug in to a sandy bottom with thirty metres of chain in six metres of water. Punta de la Stancia is an interesting looking village with a hotchpotch of small white houses built into the cliffs.

Sun 2nd

After a quiet night, Pippa got her early morning swim before I got up.

Not long after breakfast an on shore breeze picked up, with it came an uncomfortable chop. We put up with it for a while, but despite having our anchor well dug in we were very conscious of being on a most inhospitable lee shore. We decided to leave in the late morning and have lunch at sea.

We tried to sail, but mostly motored down the coast. There were various possibilities, but we eventually chose a small rocky cove half a mile south west of Puerto de Candelaria. From seaward it looked most unattractive surrounded as it is with industrial estate warehouses. However, on closer inspection, most of the buildings were out of our line of sight because of the tall cliffs. Expecting the bottom to be rocks and stones we set a tripping line and put out lots of chain. Imagine my delight when, during a snorkeling inspection, I found good sand and no rocks at all until one could almost touch the cliffs.

This is due to be our last anchorage for a week as tomorrow we are booked into the marina at Pto Radazul.

It’s interesting to note that over the past week we have seen no other yachts at anchor. It may be that people are not prepared to put up with as much ‘bounce’ as we are. (Though we do have limits…)

Wed 5th

Having taken the morning bus into Santa Cruz, our visit to the tourist information offices was rather disappointing. The office in the bus station hadn’t got a bus timetable to give us! Though the young lady at the desk retrieved her handbag from a locker and gave us her copy. Now we are talking a big bus station here. 25 to 30 buses lined up. The main terminus of the islands capital city. And they hadn’t got a timetable!

Santa Cruz ‘opera house’

There was another tourist office just ten minutes walk away and it looked very encouraging. We explained that we didn’t want a permit to climb Mt.Tiede, but would like information about other walks in the National Park.

The lady, who spoke excellent English, proceeded to tell us about guided walks to the summit of Mt Tiede! I interrupted her and asked for information about other walks in the National Park. Indicating a brochure I had picked up from the display cabinet. “Oh, that’s all out of date,” she explained. “You need to go on the internet to get that information.” I sense that they are better at giving information about beaches than mountains.

Thur 6th

We got up early to catch the bus into Santa Cruz and on to El Portillo on the East side of Mt Tiede, (at 3,718 metres the highest mountain in Spain). However, on this occasion our sights were not set on the summit. Rather, we spent a most enjoyable time doing a three hour walk on a subsidiary volcano - Arenas Negras. The prescribed walk was described as going around a small volcano and we were advised not to leave the well marked track. A convenient map reading error led us to the summit before we realised our mistake.

The foot hills of Mt Tiede

Sat 8th

After an early breakfast we packed our rucksacks, put on our walking boots and caught the bus to Santa Cruz, another to La Laguna and a third to the Parque Rural Anaga in the extreme North East of Tenerife. I must say the bus service on the island is very good.

This was a purely speculative outing as no information was available. However we knew there were mountains there. Our third bus, from La Laguna, was full of sensibly dressed people, most of whom were chatting away nineteen to the dozen in German, so we were reassured and able to travel hopefully for the remainder of the journey.

The north east tip of the island is very mountainous; the highest I can find on our sketch map is 1024 metres. The whole area is wooded and very attractive, with a surprising number of excellent ‘Vista Panoramicas’.

The staff at the park’s information office were very helpful and provided us with sketch maps and bus information to get us home after our chosen walk.

We embarked on a very pleasant route that was to take us about four hours to complete. It was mostly easy underfoot and passed through forests, spectacular cliff scenery and old villages on its way to the coast.

Of particular note was the village of Chinamada which dates from 1506 and is still mostly constructed of houses built into natural caves.

I was also impressed by the ingenuity of a forest ranger of ancient times, who dreamt of building a chapel at Cruz del Carmen. There was no suitable stone to hand, so he did a deal with people travelling to other villages to trade. They would receive a bundle of fire wood for each stone they brought him. By this enterprise his dream became a reality.

The return bus journey went like clockwork and got us back to Sula in time for supper. So, all in all a very good day out.

A very good day out.

Mon 10th

We caught the bus to Santa Cruz, then to La Laguna, and the Parque Rural Anaga. Our bikes came too, travelling in the luggage compartment under the bus. At a small village on the crest of the main ridge, we disembarked and set off on a most enjoyable bike ride along a ridge with stunning views of the mountains and steep slopes leading down to the sea.

For our return journey we found a helter skelter road that descended steeply to the outskirts of Santa Cruz. We free wheeled the 12 kilometres down the mountainside with little more than a few easy turns of the peddles. Another fine day out.

The marina at San Sebastian de la Gomera.

Tues 11th

Rest, preparing for sea, jobs, swimming, mega shopping. We sail tomorrow after breakfast.

Wed 12th

And sail we did. We set of in a strengthening NE wind and sailed down the east coast of Tenerife. By lunch time we were over powered so dumped the main sail. We were in the acceleration zone winds once again and they were blowing force 5. However, the sun was shining fit to bust and we were on a run. Stupidly, I had not shipped the Hydrovane rudder, so hand steering was the order of the day.

At point Rasca, the southern most tip of Tenerife, we turned right, lost the wind altogether and were left in an uncomfortable slop. We hadn’t time to get to our planned anchorage before dark, so called in at Los Christianos. The pilot book gives it an awful write up. Brash tower blocks, less than perfect holding, busy ferry port etc etc.

We went in expecting the worse and were pleasantly surprised. The harbour authority have placed a line of yellow buoys, not to mark a prohibited swimming only zone as one might expect, quite the contrary. They are to ensure you are well out of the ferry traffic routes. Once we sussed this out and threaded our way in through the moorings, we found a good anchorage. We hadn’t dropped the hook for more than a few minutes when we saw a huge catamaran ferry heading straight for us. We were quite safe however, on the correct side of the buoys. It was a good feeling.

After supper, as a full moon rose over a small mountain, I sat in the cockpit sipping a glass of something and counting my good luck, a rather pleasant jazz band started playing in a shore side bar. The saxophonist was particularly good. Life’s not too bad.

Thur 13th

In the morning a boat ferrying a maritime policeman turned up. He was quite polite and explained that we were not allowed to anchor here. I was astonished because we were well clear of any shipping and quite close to several moorings holding an assorted hotchpotch of small craft. They ranged from a tall ship to small barges, and included one yacht. When I asked, the policeman indicated the only permissible anchorage. It was completely outside the protection of the harbour wall and would have been most uncomfortable in any swell. They obviously don’t want visiting yachts in Los Christianos. We decided to leave. But before we did, a surf board paddler came by and enticed me to try my hand.

 Just get the balance

 Nearly there

Easy Peasy

Oops

We sailed up the coast as far Pto San Juan. The harbour there was packed to the brim with small craft. There was no room for us at all, so we retraced our course and anchored for the night in an attractive cove just south of Point Negra. There was some swell rolling in but we are used to that by now and had a comfortable night. A rather grotesque sight on the beach was the hull of a wrecked yacht, now covered in graffiti. We put out lots of chain and made quite sure the anchor was well dug into the sandy bottom.

Fri 14th

Sailed, or rather motored off in the morning for Gomera Island. It’s rather frustrating, no wind but an uncomfortable lop. On the plus side, we have seen a couple of schools of Short Finned Pilot Whales. One swam right underneath us and it was only then that we could appreciate its true size.

As I wrote the previous paragraph, I could hear clanking and banging and the sound of a sail flogging. "Everything sounds much louder below deck".

Pippa, frustrated with the mainsail slating, had decided to reef. I came on deck just as she finished. It seemed strange having no wind at all when ahead we could see some white horses. On closer inspection there were quite a lot of white horses. A breeze then picked up and at last we could sail. The breeze continued to increased too as we reefed the headsail. Within two minutes it was blowing force six (25 knots).

I was glad Pippa had reefed the main, though decided the second reef was required. And so we sailed full and by at 5 ½ knots for an hour and a half, until we came into the lee of La Gomera. Then, as dramatically as it started, the acceleration wind just stopped. We motored the two miles or so to a pleasant sheltered and deserted anchorage at Playa de Oroja.

Sat 15th

In the morning we motored in very light headwinds for eight miles along a steep cliff lined coast to Cala Cantera on the south west of the island. It was very pleasant with an ancient fish canning factory ashore. Unfortunately, the factory wasn’t quite so picturesque on closer inspection.

After lunch, we motored just a mile and a half further along the coast to a fine cliff lined anchorage with a storm beach at Cala de la Negra.

Lots of swimming done today. So far La Gomera has made a good impression on us.

Cala de la Negra

Sun 16th

We pumped up the dinghy after breakfast and paddled ashore for a short explore. Not much to report really. Except that a mischievous wave picked us up, tipped us out, and dumped us unceremoniously on the beach.

After a swim to get rid of the sand, followed by lunch, we moved to Playa de Argaya, next to the harbour and town of Puerto de Vueltas. A pleasant looking place.

Mon 17th

We paddled the dinghy into the harbour rather than risk the small surf breaking on the beach. Then we walked up the path of the Valle Gran Rey (Valley of the Great King). But soon got bored with it, as it either followed the road or led through the corporation recycling plant. We found a much more interesting track that led up into the mountains, so set off to explore. It turned out to be a strenuous and hot hike to a ridge that may or may not have put us on a minor summit. But that was enough for two not very fit sailors. We returned by the same route. Pippa bought water and juice from the supermarket, but I stuck by my guns and opted for cold beer in a dockside café.

Wed 19th

We got up reasonably early and sailed at 9am. Our plan was to go clockwise (north) to the other side of the island. However, two miles off, we hit an unexpected acceleration zone wind from that direction. Stupidly I didn’t reef immediately, but instead, ran off back towards the harbour. I was thinking it would only be half a mile before we were out of the wind. However it followed us in and we were careering along at seven knots all the way back.

As soon as we reached calm waters, we reefed and motor sailed south east (anti clockwise) towards another anchorage. I couldn’t believe my senses. The wind had gone round 180 degrees, though not now blowing so strongly. It was obviously not my day for sailing, so we headed off to Cala de la Negra where we had anchored a few days before.

Sun 23rd

A quiet day at a very pleasant anchorage. I rowed ashore in the morning and climbed a hill to try and get a signal on my kindle. It felt rather like going down to the village shop to get the Sunday papers.

At lunch time, a Spanish yacht with mum, dad and a boy, anchored really close to us in an otherwise deserted bay. They left in the late afternoon only to be replaced by a large French yacht. They at least anchored a decent distance off. Don’t they know it is our private cove and we don’t like visitors?

Mon 24th

Another quiet day. However we did get up reasonably early and went for a short walk up to a small peak with a statue of Christ looking over the harbour. It was far too hot too do much else, so we returned in time for lunch and lots of swimming to cool down.

Our anchorage is protected from the worst of any NE swell generated by the acceleration zone winds. I still don’t understand them. I must do some research. Sometimes they blow like fury and another day, with no change in the weather that I can see, they don’t blow at all.

Mt Tiede from La Gomera

November.

1st

We sailed at dawn. Actually, we motored for a short while until we cleared the west coast of La Gomera. A light wind piped up and we were able to sail our course to Isla de la Palma.

It turned out to be a lovely sail. Four to five knots just off the wind most of the way. At one point we reefed in anticipation of an acceleration zone wind, but nothing became of it. Having shaken the reef out, the rest of the passage was pleasantly warm and lovely sailing. We arrived just as a cruise ship was leaving,, but it cleared the harbour before we got there so no problems.

The marina staff were friendly and helpful and soon we were shown to a berth. There was quite some bounce as we approached the harbour, but once inside it was fine. We had been warned by the pilot book (quite out of date) that the marina suffered badly from surge. It doesn’t seem too bad to us.

2nd

I started on my not inconsiderable list of jobs today.

The first one was to find a motor factors shop, and buy a new engine starting battery. The old one having given up the ghost.

I had a problem in that the new battery was very heavy and I was on my bike with no means of carrying it. Another customer in the shop came to my rescue and offered to help me. Of course I didn’t completely understand this at the time as the conversation was entirely in Spanish. Anyway, while I was paying for the battery, the man took the battery and left the shop. I was little concerned, but decided to be a willing hostage to fortune. Once outside, I discovered that my battery was in a luggage box on the carrier of his motor bike.

He was fascinated by my folding bike and called to the shopkeeper to come and see, as I folded it away and then unfolded it again for his benefit. I set off as fast as I could peddle back to the marina with the man on a motorbike following on behind.

What kind people one meets.

In the early evening, Pippa and I walked to the Real Club Nautico where we have honorary membership as part of the deal with the marina.

It’s a fine building with both indoor and outdoor swimming pools, bar, restaurant and gymnasium.

As you might imagine we have a long list of jobs to complete before sailing to the Caribbean. The essential ones will get done and we will see about the rest.

This afternoon I set out to straighten a bottle screw that was bent during a close encounter with a Greek coastguard cutter, way back in November 2008. I climbed over a low fence, to reach a redundant metal bollard, from a time before the marina was built.

Having placed the offending piece of rigging just so, I proceeded to bash seven bells out of it with a hitting stick.

At this point, a very nice marina man arrived and in the politest way possible, pointed out that I really shouldn't have climbed over the fence.

Then, to my amazement, he took me to his workshop, helped me to fix the bottle screw and said if I had other work to do, just ask, he would help me.

I think we will be Ok here.

28th

And indeed we have been very all right in the Marina La Palma. It’s a little bouncy at times, but the advantages far outweigh that small problem. A short walk into the centre of a very pleasant town enables most of the things we need to be found after a short search.

We had one excellent walk, which reminded us of the levada walks of Madeira,

only better and more exciting than the ones we were able to do.

This is what Pippa wrote:-

On Sunday, we rewarded ourselves for good behavior with an excellent walk. We cycled steeply out of town for about 3km to reach the start of the track. Our path followed along side the dry river bed, up to a church and small hamlet.

Next, we descended to another (dry) river bed called the Barranco de la Madera.

This section was most attractive; lush vegetation, a multitude of leafy trees, both deciduous and coniferous and the occasional flowering plant.

We even stopped to collect some shiny, sweet chestnuts to roast later.

We ascended steadily; the solitude was balm after the noise of the town traffic. The cliffs above were rugged rock and as we continued to climb, the path became narrower and more exposed. A large section of our path followed alongside an irrigation canal. It was strange to hear the sound of rushing water in the covered canal and in the numerous pipes and not to be able to see any water! At the head of the ravine, the track and canal disappeared – into a tunnel hewn from the rock.

La Palma Barranco de la Madera.

The guide book says,” …the route becomes aerial at the exits to these tunnels, seemingly suspended on the vertical rock face. It is easy, spectacular and also dangerous!”

Well, not dangerous if you are careful and do not suffer from vertigo.

We marvelled at the men who worked up here, channelling the precious resource down to Santa Cruz. And, of course, the engineers, who master minded the whole project.

After a long section of tunnels we found ourselves on a pine clad slope and descended in a series of steep zigzags back to our starting point. Our bikes were awaiting us and the hard cycle up was now an exhilarating whizz back to the marina.

November has been mostly work on the boat with little time left for play.

As our planned sailing day of the 1st of December (Stop press: deprture postponed for 24 hours) approaches, all the important jobs are done and we are loading poor old Sula down to the gunnels with food and water.

We will sail first for the island of Gomera on the 2nd of December as a short shake down cruise. Then all being well next day we will follow in the wake of Christopher Columbus for the 2,700 mile crossing of the Atlantic Ocean to Grenada in the Windward islands of the Caribbean, where we hope to arrive in time for Christmas.

The flags of some of the Caribbean islands we hope to visit