Autumn sailing in Turkey’s Lycian coast.Turkey has been kind to us. Albatross Marina had looked after Sula well and the launch went without a hitch. We arrived back in Marmaris on Friday 4th September. Launched Sula the same day and were on our way and anchored at Gerbeksi Bay by Sunday the 6th.
There followed a succession of fabulous anchorages as we worked our way day sailing along Turkey’s Lycian coast, between Marmaris and Anatalya.
The Turks have proved to be the most friendly and helpful of people. A smile is never far from their faces. Even market stall holders will not hassle rich tourists like us, once we have explained that we are “Just looking”.
In Fethiye, I bought a new electric bilge pump. I found the one I wanted in the marina chandlery. Having fitted it at anchor the next day, I found it didn’t work properly. On investigation I discovered that despite saying 12 volts on the box it was in fact a 24 volt model. I still had the receipt, but unfortunately not the box or packaging.
We retraced our course. Early the next morning a friendly fuel berth attendant directed us to a free parking place in a corner of the marina that we could use. “For a short while”.
I returned to the shop without too much hope. I don’t think Turkey has a consumer protection act.
I explained the problem to the manager, who spoke excellent English. He took the now rather grubby pump and placed it back on the shelf. Then having found a suitable replacement he handed it to me, not even asking to see the original receipt or enquiring about the missing packaging.
I took the precaution of carefully examining the pump and discovered that, although suitable, it was a more powerful model. I pointed this out and offered to pay the extra cost, but my friendly shopkeeper wouldn’t hear of it. He shook my hand and wished me good day.
Sula top left, Storeyville top right.With a somewhat bigger craft as Sula’s neighbour.
More good sailing followed, with mostly fine weather, but with some no wind days and therefore some motoring.
In a beautiful archipelago of islands and creeks south of Gocek, known as Fethiye Korfezi, we bumped into Di & Tony Miles from Neyland (no, not literally). First it was a wave of recognition, followed by a snatched word in passing, then an email. A meeting place was arranged and Pippa and I were entertained to supper aboard Storyville in the fine, but rather busy Tersane Creek.
Although life has been treating us very well on this stage of our journey, there have been a few flies in the ointment.
Not the offender in my story.Though this one is, I think, invading our space a bit.
The least of the problems has come from one or two Gulets joining us in some wonderful anchorage. One can’t honestly complain about their mere presence, though we had perhaps rather greedily harboured ideas of complete seclusion.
The real problem has arisen when suddenly the peace is shattered by the Boom! Boom Boom! of loud pop music engulfing the bay. It can happen at any time of day and once or twice has gone on until late into the evening.
I was particularly annoyed by the attitude of a British yachtsman we had the misfortune to meet. We arrived at dusk, and did a quick survey of a bay not mentioned in our pilot book. There were lots of rocks, and the only practical anchorage in an otherwise deserted bay was off the beach 100 metres or so away from the only other vessel.
As we ate our supper, our neighbour turned his music player up full, rowed ashore with his partner and lit a fire on the beach. I gave it a while, but eventually my patience ran out. I called across to him asking if he would please turn the music down. His response, though negative, was simple, to the point and was perhaps all I expected. He yelled back, “No! If you don’t like it F*** off.
My final winge is about a Gulet again, but this time the incident was both bad seamanship and outright dangerous.
Having discovered a rather pleasant anchorage off a deserted beach, our thoughts were of a swim to cool down followed by a cold beer before supper. We anchored in a suitable depth and laid a stern anchor towards the beach to keep Sula’s head towards any swell that might develop.
Just as we had completed the manoeuvre, a large Gulet arrived and anchored fairly close on our starboard side; c’est la vie, there was enough room for two.
I went for my dip, taking flippers, mask and snorkel with me. While I was at it, I thought I might as well just double check the setting of our two anchors.
All was well and I set off back from the beach. Directly astern of Sula, I noticed a second Gulet looking for a place to anchor. Sorry mate I thought, you are too late, no room off this beach.
I swam back along my stern line and paused to look around the above surface world.
To my astonishment the Gulet was reversing straight towards me at quite a lick! I swam at right angles to his course as fast as I was able, shouting loudly to a crew member, who looked at me, but did nothing to draw the skipper’s attention to my plight.
Soon I was close enough to touch the side of the Gulet. Thankfully I had swam clear of the stern and it’s thrashing propeller!! From my position in the water I remonstrated with the captain and pointed out that he was over my stern line. He gave a shrug and assured me “It’s no problem”. He seemed uninterested that from my perspective, it was indeed quite a problem.
Fortunately, although anchored far too close, the captain and his passengers were quiet, went to bed early and left well before us at dawn.
The Turkish Gulet sailors are justifiably proud of their country and its flag.
I hasten to point out that despite the few problems we have had with Gulets and tripper boats. The overwhelming majority have displayed impeccable seamanship and courtesy.
We have picked up many useful tips on anchoring in tight places just by watching these huge, unwieldy yachts do it with such panache.
On one occasion I anchored with a line astern in the only available space, but was too close for comfort to an underwater rock off the shore. A neighboring Gulet captain recognizing my predicament sent a boat across and took my line to his amidships cleat to hold me off the danger for the night.
Another time I fouled up badly and ran aground on a shoal patch, while approaching the position in which I wished to anchor. No tides in the med to lift me off of course, and Sula was stuck fast. I couldn’t get off with the engine full ahead or astern. The light was fading and my thoughts were on techniques to careen her over to bring the keel clear. I tried crawling out on the boom set amidships, but to no avail.
A small neighboring gullet, watching the fun, came quietly to the rescue. He slipped his stern line, extended his anchor chain and threw me a rope, before calmly, but firmly, pulling me clear. Then, just as calmly, returned to his previous position.
Having circumnavigated the offending shoal and successfully anchored, I rowed across to thank the captain. He welcomed me aboard, offered me refreshment and took the whole incident in his stride. He sought neither thanks nor reward. I did however persuade him to accept a small bottle of rum as a gift from a fellow sailor.
Gulets, Yachts and local opportunist salesmen. Whilst anchored in a delightful cove in the North West end of Gemiler Adasi, we were approached by a boatman calling “Ice Creeeeme! Ice Creeeeme!” Pippa replied politely, but firmly, “Thank you but not today, perhaps tomorrow.”
We soon forgot the incident until next day, after a fine sail round the islands, we returned to the anchorage we liked so much. Our boatman of yesterday appeared and, smiling at us, pointed out, “It’s tomorrow.” We saw no future explaining about Red Queens and Jam. We smiled back and bought two indifferent and rather expensive Ice Creeeemes.
Dawn at Kucuk Kuruk
A shoreside delight of our cruising has been to visit many fine Roman & Byzantine ruins. The whole place abounds with them. We normally do our land based exploration early in the morning before the heat of the day makes walking up hill a chore.
On just such an occasion we re visited Kucuk Kuruk before dawn, imagining how wonderful the view would be at sunrise. After a very pleasant 40 minute walk, we arrived at the sight and awaited the dawn. Sadly, on this occasion, we were denied its full splendour by a cloudy sky. None the less, it was well worth the slight effort.
Detail of the Kucuk Kuruk ruin. As the autumn progresses the weather is of course becoming more unsettled. The days are getting noticeably shorter and if not cooler, at least not so hot.
We have lately had some quite spectacular thunder and lightning storms with their attendant squalls. I have attached lengths of chain that dangle in the water from the shrouds, as a gesture towards lightning protection. We also un plug the radios and have even been known to place portable electronic items in the gas oven.
We have a fridge on board that makes use of sea water, to dissipate the heat produced by its pump. We also rely to a great extent on a solar panel to recharge the boats batteries. The combination of high sea temperatures and shorter days is putting quite a strain on our energy management. Though not, I hasten to add, enough for us to contemplate foregoing a cold beer as a sun downer.
Just another Turkish anchorage. So, to recap. Since returning to Turkey in September, we have sailed from Marmaris to Anatalya via Gocek, Fethiye, Kas, Finike and Kemer, visiting any number of smaller places along the way. As I write this on the 29th October, our plan is to continue cruising back and forth along this delightful coast, never straying too far from Finike, where we have booked a berth in the marina, from the 1st December until the end of March.
