Towards Turkey

Sula at a typical Dodecanese anchorage
(Taken through the lens of Pippa’s sun glasses).

We have had some glorious sailing and visited many fine anchorages as we worked our way down the Dodecanese and Cyclades islands . We have shied away from marinas and harbours as far as possible, usually only calling in long enough to replenish dwindling supplies of fuel, water and food. We have found that it is possible in most harbours and even some marinas, to call in for a few hours during the day, re provision and then move on to a quiet anchorage all free of charge. Since we left the UK we have, of course, never been asked to pay at an anchorage. I can only imagine the shock visiting foreign yachtsmen must get when asked to pay for the privilege of lying to their own ground tackle in a British harbour, especially when no services are provided.

Fledgling Swallows

Since leaving Kalamata we have anchored most nights, and often at a separate anchorage for a lunch stop. You would be forgiven for thinking that we must be getting fairly good at it. Well, we are at least getting more experienced. This is how it works:-

We decide in advance where to go, then look round for the quietest and most sheltered spot. I usually take the helm while Pippa goes forward and prepares the anchor.

It’s really easy. The water is so clear that you can usually see the bottom and so select the best spot to drop the hook. The trouble is, sometimes you can clearly see that the bottom is covered in impenetrable weed or rock that would not take the anchor. It’s then you realise why no one else is anchored there. So you go off in search of an alternative.

Having found somewhere that looks suitable you discover it’s too deep, so you cautiously edge your way into shallower water and fingers crossed drop anchor. When sufficient chain is out you set the anchor by gently motoring astern. That done you increase the engine revs and find that the anchor is dragging. Bother!

Next try everything goes to plan, though you may be just a tad closer in than you intended. Anyway it will do. Then just as you are about to open a well deserved can of cold beer, the wind that has been steady all day changes direction by 180 degrees. Sula swings to her anchor, the rocks are now really close. Best try again before the last of the evening light goes.

This time you find a place that’s so steep to, it goes from 60 metres to nothing in just a few boat lengths. It will have to do. You drop the hook in 15 metres and motor backwards towards the rocks. When you dare go no closer, you watch like a hawk as you set the anchor. It holds and Pippa is encouraged to dive over the side with a stern rope in her teeth, swim with gusto ashore and make it fast to a suitable rock or tree.

A cool skipper might remark at this juncture “It’s OK, no rush, take your time, that other yacht we are drifting towards is a long way off yet”. Hmm I wish I was that cool.

Life is full of the unexpected

Here is a list of the islands we have visited since the last Blog posting with just a few notes about the most memorable:-

May

11th - 15th Naxos. We hired a car and climbed the highest mountain on the island. A long hot day.

16th & 17th Mikonos.

18th 20th Rinia. Stayed an extra day because of strong head winds.

21st 22nd Naxos.

23rd Iraklia.

24th Amorgos. A very attractive harbour.

25th Amorgos. Cycled to Katapola monastery.

Katapola monastery

26th Levitha. Lovely small & peaceful fishing harbour with laid moorings

27th Leros.

28th & 29th Patmos. Super harbour, bow to, excellent facilities.

30th Arki.

31st & 1st Agathonisi. We sailed for Samos on the 1st of June, but once clear of the island we met fresh head winds. We turned back and found a second anchorage.

June

2nd Samos. Awful place, noisy & crowded didn’t get much sleep.

3rd Samiopoula. Lovely quiet bay picked up Caique (Greek Gulet) mooring for . .. the night.

4th – 6th Fournoi. South anchorage, lovely and quiet. Raced a fishing boat for best position and won!

7th 8th Patmos. Replenished our supplies and then cycled to a lovely monastery, before anchoring in bay a mile or so from the main harbour. Incredibly hot in the afternoon

9th Lipsi.

10th & 11th Leros. Three different anchorages one just for lunch and a much . needed swim.

12th Kalymnos. Anchored for lunch, but it was too hot and crowded so we moved to Pserimos for the night.

13th Pserimos. A lovely anchorage.

14th & 15th Kos. The wind picked up while on passage from Pserimos until we were running before a force six wind. At one point, for just a few moments we clocked 7½ knots on the GPS. It was time to dump the main sail! Later I was busy doing something important when a comment from Pippa brought me up on deck. “Dee the harbour entrance is half a mile away and we are doing 5 knots”. Entering the marina in that wind concentrated my mind wonderfully.

16th Nisyros. We felt very small berthed amongst several much bigger yachts. Cycled for many miles to view the famous crater. It was only OK, but we were rewarded by a grand freewheel all the way back.

17th Tilos. Found small, secluded & attractive bay away from main. harbour.

18th to 20th Simi. Three different anchorages. All very good but very hot.

Gerbekse
Our first Turkish anchorage

21st Gerbekse. Delightful anchorage, our first in Turkey. Good shelter Byzantine ruins to visit and fine cliffs to scramble on.

22nd Marmaris bay. Fine during the day, but very noisy with disco music booming out in the evening until the small hours.

23rd Marmaris marina. Huge efficient modern marina. Cleared customs.

24th to 28th Explored many fine bays in the vicinity. Came to grips with anchoring close in and swimming a line ashore. All very hot, we needed to swim at regular intervals to avoid overheating.

A Turkish gulet

29th In one fine anchorage, a neighbouring yacht’s anchor chain was fouled by a visiting gullet, full of local people dancing to lively Turkish music. When it came time for them to leave, a boy who couldn’t have been more then ten, and was presumably the son of the skipper, pulled in the anchor rope by hand until it became tight on the yachts chain. He then jumped over the side and dived down to clear the fouled anchor. Having done that he swam back to the gulet, reached up to grasp his fathers outstretched hand and was calmly pulled back on board. I wonder what he will be like in ten years time!

30th Albatross marina. Very pleasant and efficient marina. Much better than it looks on the map link.

July

1st An early start was made to avoid the heat of the day. We packed our bags, prepared Sula for storage ashore and hauled out mid morning.

2nd Caught flight from Bodrum to Gatwick. Arriving at Gatwick we experienced our first rain for almost three months. None the less it was lovely to escape the heat of the Mediterranean.