I realised we would be working above the snow line and it was likely to be very cold indeed. I therefore turned up at the appointed place at 8 O’clock in the morning, wearing my mountain boots, warm clothing and heavyweight waterproofs. Ready for anything and as it turned out a jolly good job too.
The plan had been changed; we weren’t to plant trees today. Instead we were going to take the opportunity presented by the fine weather to climb the 1,852 metre ‘Dry Mountain’ Xerovouna
Manolis - The President of Kalamata EOS
On Xerovouna
I was handed an ice axe and a pair of crampons, asked if there was anything else I needed, and bundled into the club’s mini bus.
Nine of us set off along the Sparti road, simply happy to be going to the hills.
The climb itself wasn’t technically difficult, though you had to watch your step in one or two places. We followed a zigzag route along a vague ridge line heading for a pyramid of rock that barred further progress. The obstacle was turned to the right and before very much longer we were breaking through a small cornice onto a minor subsidiary summit.
We were now high in the hills and were rewarded with stunning views across to mountains whose names I have yet to learn. Indeed some discussion took place as to which was our final objective for the day.
The going was now easier and we set off at a brisk pace. At one point a small but steep descent was required. We simply sat down and slid as though on a child’s slide, to whoops of delight.
The mountain I had presumed to be our goal turned out to be a false summit that had to be traversed to put us on the true ridge.
This achieved, all that remained was to persuade our tiring muscles to keep up the good work for just a little longer.
A mist had developed, shrouding the highest peaks. So it was a tremendous bonus to finally reach the top, and be rewarded by the mist lifting to reveal a spectacular panorama of high mountains, with Sparti clearly visible to the East and Kalamata in the distance to the South West.
Decent of Xerovouna
We descended by a different route, that led through Christmas card scenes of snow encrusted conifers down into a gorge. Soon a track led us back to the Sparti road just as it was getting dark.
We had been on the go for eight hours. A couple of team members were dispatched to recover the mini bus, and after a little confusion caused by the remaining party accepting a kindly offered lift. We were eventually all united at a convenient taverna.
The following is a report Pippa wrote
for the Kalamata club website
Dee and I celebrated March 1st in grand style with EOS Kalamata. We walked high into the snowy mountains and were rewarded with stunning views of the surrounding area.
Panaghitsa
But first, we need to go back several months.
Shortly after we arrived in Kalamata, Dee was studying the map one evening. ‘Look,’ he said, ‘If we go along here and follow this ridge up, we can join a higher ridge which connects with these mountains. It would make a marvellous day out.’
We duly hired a car and set off for Vorio. The scenery was spectacular; deep gorges and soaring mountains. Our excitement grew as we wound our way up the dusty track. Unfortunately, there was no way through the scrub.
‘Let’s try a bit further up,’ Dee suggested. So we got back into the car and drove a little further on. It was still impossible.
The sun was shining, it was a beautiful day and I was getting impatient, ‘If we don’t start walking soon, the day will be over and we will have wasted it sitting in a car.’
So we abandoned our original plan and walked up the track instead. The views were good; we could see down into the Ridomou Gorge and the peaks of high mountains loomed above us. It was, however, a tedious walk and we felt rather cheated.
On our return to the boat, we studied the photos. ‘There’s got to be a way,’ said Dee. ‘See where those orchards are? I’m sure there must be a track that goes up through them. I’d really like to have another go some time.’
Time passed. We didn’t forget Kolobou or Panaghitsa, but we visited other fine mountains and kept studying the map.
March 1st. The alarm clocks (yes, there were many!) went off at 0630. The mini bus collected us from the marina, which saved us having to cycle over to the headquarters.
We were on our way!
We skirted round Vorio and turned off towards Kentro, then proceeded along a rough and tortuous track, climbing up alongside the fig orchards that Dee had seen in his photos.
This was the way we should have gone all those months ago, but the track is not marked on the map! The mini bus was skilfully parked (Not too close to the edge!) and we piled out, donned our walking kit and the walk started.
The gradient was kind – not too steep to begin with. I so much prefer a gentle start to a walk; it gives you time to get into the rhythm of things.
Eventually, we left the track and started to climb the ridge – Kolobou.
It was a delight; crisp snow that mainly held your weight, interspersed with dry rocks that gave good grip. I began to enjoy myself hugely and the nagging doubt that it would all be too difficult or exhausting, evaporated. I was in the mountains; there was sunshine and blue skies and the company was excellent; just 6 of us, Dee and me and 4 members of EOS. Kalamata.
We finally reached Panaghitsa at 1703m. The views were spectacular. Snow covered ridges and mountains all around us and the sea in the hazy distance. We continued along the ridge avoiding the wind swept cornices and traversing lower down where necessary. It was steep! I was grateful to follow in the steps already cut by the person in front. Judicious use of the ice axe was needed, but conditions were such that we didn’t need our crampons.
We stopped just short of Kokkinovouni. Chalasmeno rose majestically before us and there too was Profit Illias – with a tiny black figure on the summit!
What a fine summit! It is always such a privilege to be in the mountains and we were so proud to be there with our Greek friends.
Panaghitsa
We descended via the west ridge of Kokkinovouni. I found it steep and tiring, but it was a good way down. We finally regained the track and walked the last kilometre to the waiting minibus.
I am so grateful to our Greek companions for making it all possible. Not only did they transport us there and show us the way, but they shared delicious figs and walnuts with us and included us in the conversation by talking to us in English. How we wish we could speak more Greek!
A wonderful day in the hills.
Back to Dee again.
The cherry on our mountain cake came just two days later.
We hired a car, made an early start and headed off to Sparti.
Our goal was to climb the highest mountain in the Taygetos range, Profitis Ilias.
Profitis Ilias.
We parked the car at the snow line and headed steeply up a forest path that led to the Sparti EOS mountain refuge. It was closed on this occasion, although we had stayed here on a previous attempt on the mountain.
As we gained height we realised that the footprints in the snow we were following deviated from the way marked route. However visibility was good and we could see that it was a logical if rather steep alternative. We could always turn back if it proved too difficult.
As we gained height our ski poles were put away in favour of ice axes, essential in this terrain to arrest a slip. The snow condition was excellent and secure footholds were obtained by a good heavy kick of a size nine (or size six) boot.
Five hundred feet from the summit it got quite steep, and we met some snow ice. A handy rock provided a small but sufficient seat, while we fitted our crampons. Thus equipped we were able to continue. The gradient soon eased and all of a sudden there we were on the summit.
Profitis Ilias summit
We were rewarded with a fabulous panorama. The sun was shining, the sky was clear, and the whole Taygetos range was laid out beneath our feet. It was, however, very cold and an icy wind soon ushered us away.
We elected to followed the normal route down. It was very icy at first, however the gradient was easy and we made quick progress to a sheltered outcrop of rock for a late lunch.
Lunch time - Giving my crampons a rest
As we lost altitude the snow became softer and softer. Footsteps would collapse without warning, and one would sink in up to ones knees.
Exhausting work and very slow. We literally ploughed our way down past the refuge and into the woods, where thankfully the snow was less deep.
After nine hours of almost continuous climbing, we arrived back at the car, where hot coffee and a bag of cinnamon buns revived us no end.
We were ecstatic, it had been a brilliant day. It took a long while for the Cheshire cat grins to leave our faces.
N.B. If you have enjoyed our ramblings, you may find the Kalamata EOS web site amusing. It’s not all in Greek.
