Cadiz

There has been a cost attached to the beautiful September weather the UK has been experiencing and Pippa and I have had to pay the price! The high pressure over Britain has allowed a stream of lows to pass over Sula! But I won’t whinge too much, I know I won’t get any sympathy. The result is we have done more motoring than sailing because of constant head winds. We have however been largely spared the cold and wet, one would associate with such weather at home. In fact it’s often been very hot.

Keeping cool

We arrived at the port of Leixoes just to the north of Porto on the 14th September and stayed for two days. We did our duty and went sightseeing in Porto. Taking a bus into the city, we thought our driver was a bit of a boy racer, but soon noticed that all the buses did the same. They only have two speeds, Stop and Full speed, However no harm was done except to our nerves. Though we did go back by Metro.

Porto. Splendid, but on close inspection contains much poverty and dingy houses.

The highlight of the day was our non-conducted tour of a Port wine distillery.
We arrived at an open door with a sign that indicated a museum of port wine in a leafy grove by the river. In we went and looked around, and very interesting it was too. Stairs led off up to more displays until near the top we found a ‘Private’ notice. We retraced our steps until we found more stairs going down into the cellars. Down we went, marvelling at so much port maturing in barrels. Still more steps to a lower level and more port.
We were wondering how much deeper we could go and also why we were the only ones in the building. Turning a corner we bumped into a guided party coming the other way. The guide was quite taken aback by our presence and after a bit of blinking and strange looks, asked if she could help us. “No thank you” we replied “we’re fine”. She got on her radio and called the security guard.

The guard was most helpful; he had a good sense of humour and accepted our explanation. He explained that unguided tours were not allowed, and showing us to the door, offered us the choice of a complimentary drink in the bar or the opportunity for a conducted tour. What a lovely man.

Replica port wine barges in the Rio Douro

Cascais on the Reo Tejo, down stream of Lisboa (Lisbon) was our next port of call. We caught a train into town and did the tourist thing, including having an excellent barbequed sardine lunch and visiting the fascinating Maritime museum which houses amongst many splendid boats a Royal Barge that was rowed by eighty oarsmen!

The 20th saw us in Sines. Having anchored for the night deep inside the harbour, we awoke to thick, impenetrable fog. We waited and waited, drank far too much tea and coffee and eventually convinced ourselves that it was clearing. No sooner had we got the anchor up and committed ourselves to leaving, than the fog closed in again. We left harbour guided by our ever faithful GPS and went to great pains to ensure we remained well clear of the shipping lanes. Another night of motoring in very light headwinds took us past Cabo de Sao Vincente where we turned left along Portugal’s south coast. At least I think we did, couldn’t see much.

We spent the nights of 21st & 22nd in Baleeira and Alvor respectively. We rolled and rolled all night at anchor in the inexorable Atlantic swell. No matter how deep we tucked ourselves into harbour it sought us out. The saving grace was that we had a fabulous sail to Alvor, down wind all the way with the spinnaker up and for a brief moment, eight knots on the GPS clock. A bit too fast for ones nerves, but it didn’t last long.

On the 23rd we sailed into a lovely estuary inside Cabo de Santa Maria near Faro and spent a peaceful night at anchor. It was reminiscent of our own Afon Cleddau, strong tides, peace and quiet and the dawn chorus at breakfast time.
An early start on the 24th saw us into Tavira by mid day. It was to be a rather frustrating day. We anchored for lunch, but the echo sounder warned us that we had to move, we had swung into shallow water. We tried here, over there, just behind that boat, right over the other side. It all looked good but the deep water channel was very narrow, all the best spots were taken by moorings. We went back to our lunchtime spot, and carried out a thorough echo sounder survey. Two anchors were laid, one upstream the other down stream. Both taken to the bow to restrict our swing. The sounder was watched carefully as the tide turned. Geronimo!! We were OK.

We spent the 25th with Alan and Liz, friends of ours from Llangwm. Liz picked us up in a hire car and drove us to her welcoming Casa in the countryside. They fed and watered us in grand fashion; we explored their neighbourhood and swam in the pool if we got too hot. A most relaxing and enjoyable twenty four hours. The interior of the Algarve is certainly a most attractive part of Portugal.

We are now in the fine ancient city of Cadiz. It’s warm, wet and windy. (South East force 5 to 6.) Our next port is to the South East. We know about headwinds so, despite the marina fees, we are staying put for the present.

We arrived at 5AM yesterday morning (27th) in the rain. The approach was easy enough but things became more testing as we neared the marina. We had to cross the main big ship bay to find the entrance. It was inky black, we couldn’t see a thing. I motored closer and closer to where it must surely be, closing in on a continuous line of green marks. (Keep left). I was about a boat length off before I saw the narrow gap. No red mark in sight, I entered between two greens a boats length apart.

We had just safely tied up at our allotted berth when I looked round and saw for the first time this enormous cruise liner turning into her berth, just yards from where I had been a few minutes earlier!

The liner leaving harbour later that day. She is just yards off the marina entrance!
The photo is taken from our cockpit.

Baiona

Islas Cies

Since I last updated the Blog we have been working our way along the North West coast of Spain, round the corner and on towards Portugal. Day sailing, we have been able to visit many of the lovely Rias. We have sought out secluded anchorages and have indeed found several. In the Spanish way of doing things though, many an otherwise idyllic anchorage has been spoiled (for us) by concrete urbanisation and or extensive fish farms.
For the record this is where we have been:-

26th August Ria de Cedeira, a delightful fishing port.

27th – 30th Ria de Ares. A lovely haven of peace and shelter, sandwiched between the heavily industrial Ria of El Ferrol and the major city of La Coruna.

31st & 1st La Coruna. We anchored in 18 metres of water: that’s quite deep for an anchorage. I’m glad we carry lots of chain! A charming city, lovely buildings. We sat and drank cold orange juice in a street Café overlooking the splendid town hall & plaza.

2nd -5th Stormbound in Laxe. A small fishing port, but for us a safe haven. Our Nav Text (Long wave radio, text weather reporting device), gave us two days notice of a force nine gale from the South West. Having put down a second anchor with 60 metres of wharp, to supplement our main anchor with 30 metres of chain (and another 30 metres in reserve), we stayed put in this North facing corner of the Ria. Four other yachts left to seek shelter elsewhere, I did wonder what they knew that I didn’t, but decided to have the courage of my convictions. In the end we had a very noisy and windy night, but nothing worse. We were a bit on edge and didn’t get much sleep, continuously checking for chafe on the warp and any sign of the anchors dragging. Pippa met someone from another yacht a few days later who said he recorded gusts of 50 knots (storm force ten) in a nearby Ria, and that a lifeboat came to the assistance of two catamarans that got there anchor chains entangled.

6th Ria de Camarinas. Pretty and friendly Ria with perfect shelter. The entrance was a little hairy though. A huge swell was running into the Ria, much bigger than anything we have seen so far on this trip. In one trough we completely lost sight of a lighthouse over 100 metres above sea level!

7th & 8th Ria de Muros. To get here we have passed Cape Torinana, the most westerly part of mainland Europe and perhaps even more of a landmark, Cape Finisterre.

Cape Finisterre

9th Ria de Pontevedra. The swell made our planned anchorage a bit too bouncy for comfort, and the huge new marina didn’t seem very attractive so we opted for the old marina in the small fishing port. Having parted with nearly 20 Euros for the privilege we spent a bouncy evening and night in a rather smelly harbour with fishing boats playing boy racer and making bigger waves than the ones we had come in to avoid. Ho hum.

10th Technically in Ria de Vigo, a very commercial and built up Ria, however we anchored off the beautiful Islas Cies in the entrance to the Ria. We have spent the best part of two days walking and exploring the hills of this gem of an island. It’s a nature reserve with an abundance of sea birds. Our quest to climb a small mountain right on the north tip was foiled not by regulations and keep out notices, but by a lethal band of Gorse & Brambles.

11th & 12th. We are now in Baiona and at the southern limit of the Spanish Rias. We entered the bay in another huge swell, breaking on the outlying rocks. Quite spectacular.
We were met a mile off by the marina rib, they guided us in the last leg, although we were at that stage well past any difficulties. Having spent last night at anchor, we came into the Marina this morning. It seems to be a lovely place. I had to go up the mast this morning to see to the top of our Genoa furling gear, the problem was a missing pair of screws. Easy to replace but it took me a little longer to devise a way of making sure they didn’t come loose again. Tonight we will celebrate our last evening in Spain by going out for dinner, a belated birthday treat for Pippa.

We have enjoyed the Rias although we are probably ten or fifteen years too late to see them at their best. A bit too busy and over developed for my taste.